I have to join 2 pieces of worktop at 90degs. Is there something I can buy to join the 2 together. The join doesn't have to support any weight, its more to seal the 2 surfaces together so dirt etc doesn't get between the 2 pieces and to keep it clean

cheers

Clidd

If you have got a router, buy some worktop joining clamps,

http://i10.ebayimg.com/02/i/00/f2/25/17_1.JPG

And as it's a right angle join

...and the jig to get the cutouts for the clamps exactly in the right place, and more importantly the correct shapes on teh top edges (if it's a rolled edge front)...about £95 (or £70 on ebay);)

...and the powdered glue (can't remember the name, but mix it with water and when it sets, you'll never get it apart...the chipboard will separate before the glued joint:D)

[Edited by MartinM - 1/9/2004 9:57:04 AM]

I think you can pick the jigs up cheaper tahn that martin, I'm sure I've seen em' go for less than £40.

Maybe worth the money if you want a pukka job.

Is there not another way as like i said the each piece is already suppported weight wise, I just need to seal the 2 surfaces together. Is there not a metal strip or something i can get ???.

I don't have a router :(, god they look useful tools

Also if i did do it the professional way, could i assemble in situe or would i have to assemble the 2 piece and then transport the whole lot into place. The problem being that the kitchen is tiny and I don't think there is room to move the whole thing in, in 1.

cheers guys

Cliff

Cliff

You can get jointing strips from the DIY places - less than a fiver.

I'm ashamed to say that it's what I've used... With hindsight, I should have got the jig and jointed 'em, but what the hell?

<<so dirt etc doesn't get between the 2 pieces and to keep it clean
>>

The joining strips are fine, but they are proud of the top surfacea so dirt will collect under them in time

And you screw them to the top that has the vertical cut, and they rest against the rolled edge of the other top. So there is a bit of vertical (downwards) support, but not much.

...but they are undoubtedly a cheap solution:D

Agree with chiark: there's a jointing strip that butts up to the curved edge of one worktop, and the straight-cut edge of the other.
HOWEVER: not all worktops are the same profile, so it's best to buy a strip from the place that sold you the worktop.
They should have a choice of colour but get METAL ones if you can, rather than plastic.
You can seal them with silicone too, and it's always best to seal the cut edge of any worktop with polyeurethane, silicone etc.

I replaced all ours last year, and thought about doing it the professional way, but was told on here that it's VERY easy to make a pig's ear, even with the jigs etc, and then you're out one worktop:(:

I did mine with strips, except for one butt joint on a straight, which I cut with a circular saw, then used Screwfix worktop jointing goo in a suitable colour.

Alcazar

cheers for that, I will use a joining strip and then wedge in some clear silicone.

I cannot afford a router, jig, glue and clamps. It doesn't matter if it stands proud as its gonna be a massive improvement in whats there.

At the moment, looking forward is the sink which is actually makes up the whole surface, i.e not recessed, then to the left at 90degs is a worktop. What I plan on doing is replacing the sink with worktop, then drill a cutout and drop in a nice recessed jobbie.

cheers

Cliff

the metal joints are ok and are very easy. To do a proper join is very difficult. I helped (ie watched) a very competent carpenter do the worktops at my girlfriend's house and there is no way I would tackle the job myself, particularly if, as is normally the case, the walls are not at right angles. I consider myself a reasonably competent DIY-er but a man has to know his limitations!

Steve

Do you know anyone with tools you can borrow? You never know what you can do until you try. Acquiring these sorts of skills is never a waste of time.

The first thing I made with a (borrowed) router was a solid teak light fitting. The second was a solid teak bathroom vanity unit top. Both turned out reasonably well :)

I will be doing my kitchen worktop joins very soon. (Will probably practice on the old first though!)

To cut the hole for the sink, use a jigsaw, SLOWLY, and use a fairly worn blade to avoid splintering.
If it has pendulum, turn it OFF.

Alcazar

Always cut any laminate surface from the back this way you will get a nice clean cut on the laminate side.
Dont use a worn blade as this makes hard work of it .
If you want to cut laminate from the face side use bosch T101BR blades .
Gary
Edited to say turn pendulum of with T101BR blades.But leave it on if your cutting with a normal blade from the back.

[Edited by starship impreza - 1/10/2004 9:29:20 PM]

...when cutting laminate with a jigsaw, use a blade made for laminate cutting - the teeth go the other way and it cuts on the downward stroke avoiding chipping - available in B&Q etc etc

hmm...must learn to read the post above - presumably Bosch T101BR blades are of this type:rolleyes:

[Edited by MartinM - 1/10/2004 10:30:57 PM]

You can of course hire the router and jig etc from hire shops such as HSS or Travis Perkins Hire. (I have just got one thru my mate who works there)

On top op the hire you do have to buy a router bit plus the clamps etc - screwfix seem the cheapest...

Its the best way IMHO but make sure you have a bit of spare surafce to practice on :)

Ids

As ever, use tools designed for the job! Using worn blades is a dud idea if ever I heard one....

so to do it the professional way i will need

1. A clamp
2. A jig
3. router bit
4. Hire cost of router

anyone got a rough price on all that

I will look in B&Q for those laminate blades, cheers. So with the special blades I just cut it on the topside right ??

whats the pendulum action ???, anyone recommend a reasonable jigsaw that doesn't cost the earth ??

Cliff

Proper job:
Three clamps
A jig (hired maybe?)
A router (hired - not that cheap I imagine)
A router bit (bought)
Two spare pieces of worktop, min legth 30cms or so - to practice on, since the shapes you cut out are different on each piece to be joined
A B&D Workmate or equivalent
A broom/hoover - to clear up the mess of routed chipboard. There is a lot and it goes everywhere (unless router has a collection filter) - imagine turning a 1" wide front-to-back strip of worktop into sawdust and blowing it around a lot:D
Two people - one to do the business with the router, one to double check every measurement, help hold the worktops down whilst being routed and make the tea

DIY job
A joiner strip
A jigsaw (hired - cheap)
A laminate cutting blade (not absolutely mandatory I think, since you only cut the square edge on one piece and I think the joiner piece covers that cut edge by 5mm or so)
A B&D Workmate or equivalent
A dustpan and brush - not much mess from one jigsaw cut
One person - do the mesurement twice, lean on the worktop yourself whilst cutting and then make your own tea



[Edited by MartinM - 1/13/2004 11:02:31 AM]

dad has workmate and jigsaw that i can borrow. I will just get the special blade.

Whats involved with joining it the DIY way how does the strip fix on.

My thinking is...is the extra effort and time worth bearing in mind I have alot more to do that just this worktop, ie tiling, painting bla bla bla. Also I am abit worried about doing it the professional way due to 1. cost, 2. time, 3 ability.

I am sure with a little pratice its not that hard, I am not scared to attempt anything its just i can't afford to spend 2 days learning/doing this 1 joint.

Cliff

first piece of proper advice on this thread.
...when cutting laminate with a jigsaw, use a blade made for laminate cutting - the teeth go the other way and it cuts on the downward stroke avoiding chipping - available in B&Q etc etc.
If you are cutting to use a joint strip dont worry too much about the quality of the cut as it will be hidden just keep it nice and straight with a jigsaw as above if you go the router and jig route practice first with off cuts the jigs can be hire from most hire shops beware this is not easy and this is one job i left for a proffesional joiner when i reffited my kitchen.

http://www.diy.com/images/products/image_l/0000003101933_lc1_1_l.jpg?prodid=MainImgLrg

Not a great pic, but the near edge is curved to go agaist the roll top edge and the back is flat to go against the vertically cut edge of the piece joining at right angles. You screw the joint to the vertically cut piece and use a bit of clear sealant on the near edge where it butts up against the roll top edge to keep the crud out.

And here's not a great pic of a finished joint
http://www.homelux.co.uk/homelux/images/trim1.gif

One more aspect, and then I really think you don't need to know any more;)....

You will be joing the worktops at exactly 90 degrees - so is the overall angle between the two walls exactly 90 degrees as well? If not, you will have cut (at the back edge!) one of the pieces at an angle (and from the right end!), so that both pieces fit snugly against the walls. Otherwise you will have to cover any gap during tiling ...and there's another thread's worth of discussion on the best way to do that;)

...or chase out the wall so that some of the worktop is below the vertical wall surface at one end and against it at the other ...and there's another thread's worth of discussion on the best way (and tools) to do that too;)

...now JFDI man:D

[Edited by MartinM - 1/13/2004 10:51:35 PM]

cheers I will have to check the wall, the walls of the corner where the worktop is butting into is a load bearing wall and the flat is only 20years old so I am hoping they will be pretty true, the rest of the load bearing walls are. Its just those damm stud walls they are terrible things. They should be binned and replaced with proper massionary.

Cliff

cliff in all honesty mate doing the masons mitre is a job for a pro
i'v been a carpenter for years and i dont like doing them to much.
try to find some one to help you or just get the metal joint strip.
if i lived near i'v had sorted it for you sorry mate.good luck.

cheers guys, metal strip it is. I have taken a look at them and they look OK to me