I know that there are some professional (and experienced amateur) plumbers who frequent the board, so I thought I would ask for some help on here.
I am planning to get one of those fancy towel radiators from ScrewFix, but I would like to know what I am letting myself in for with the plumbing side of things.
I will be removing a small radiator, an I'm guessing that the connecion pipes will need to me extended or moved. What's the easiest way to do this?
Also the info for the radiator I'm looking at says "See Plumbing>Central heating for suitable radiator valves" - what kind of valves can I use?
Finally, how much of the central heating system do I need to drain? Just the radiator I'm removing? All of upstairs? The whole system? And what's the best way of draining, then refilling the system?

Thanks.

A picture of the type of rail you intend to fit would be helpful, but the questions you have asked are full of pitfulls if you have no knowledge of basic plumbing. For your own peace of mind think before taking up any floors, draining the heating system, cuttting pipes etc.

mog

This is the radiator (http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp;jsessionid=CMD3WCADB12TDCJO2C4CKTQ?p=bst&id=94723&slotName=BEST_SELLER&homeRef=home&ts=69935&destination=../cat/pro.jsp%3Fp%3Dbst%26id%3D94723%26slotName%3DBEST_S ELLER%26homeRef%3Dhome) itself:
http://www.screwfix.com/sfd/i/cat/94/94723_l.jpg

I'm not totally clueless about plumbing, but would still appreciate some advice.

I didn't mean to insult your ability so don't read too much into it, anyway the rad pictured is ok except if you want to fix it to a plaster board wall as the brackets are only really suitable for a solid wall.
Any radiator valve will fit, but a straight valve will look better. If you drain the whole system then you will find it easier to work on the pipework or if really brave then airlock it and cut the pipework live (working on the upside down pint of beer trick). And finally use pushfit or compression fittings as if you try to solder a fitting and there is the slightest trace of water then you will have trouble.

mog

And if you can't airlock it just cut the pipe :O and quickly get a push fit joint on it, you'll get a bit wet but it's a quick way around it, just have the new pipe with valve closed on the other end.

B+Q do a s/steel t/stat valve to go with your new rad.

Thanks, guys.

Alternatively if you have access to a straight section of pipe about 6" long at either side use a pipe freezing kit, available from plumbers merchants & diy shops. If it is microbore (10mm) then one B&Q can will do two pipes, if it is 15mm, you need two cans.