I'm putting new front brake hoses onto my blade soon. Can anyone give me any tips/hints on how to do this and is there any difference in the type of brake fluid I put in?

Can't speak from bike-based experience but you must be careful to tighten the unions to the manufacturer-recommended torque (don't rely on them being correct from the packet), and remember that the entire burst-strength of the hose relies on the outer braid; ANY sign of damage should warrant a replacement (the hose lengths and olives, which you need to replace every time you assemble the cable, cost buttons).

Try and bleed the whole system through with fresh fluid if possible, using a road-spec (i.e. DOT 4 compatible) fluid.

*** Long Post warning***

Installation
First off you are going to have to remove the old brake lines. This should be done with great care as the fluid loves to eat paint. Whenever I have done this I have had loads of rags and a bucket of clean water handy just in case although the safest bet would be to remove the fairing completely. Cover the bike around the Brake master cylinder and the front mudguard with rags so that any spilt fluid will caught rather than ruin the paint. Undo one of the Bolts that secure the hoses to the calipers, if you are using a side stand rather than a paddock stand then undue the left hand side first. Fluid will start to drip from the hole in the fitting, find a way to catch the drips (a plastic bag taped to the hose is a good bet). Then with a rag in your other hand undo the top hose from the master cylinder. The fluid will then rush out into the bag at the bottom. Do the same with the other caliper bolt. You are now free to remove the entire hose system from the bike. Plug the hole in the master cylinder then rinse down the bike just in case.
Now its time to fit the new hoses!!!
2 line kits.
With a 2 line kit the very minimum of parts you get will be 2 hoses complete with fittings, a double banjo bolt and seven copper washers. You can reuse your old caliper bolts but never the washers. New bolts would look nice though eh? You will need some brake fluid too, DOT 5 is the highest available but DOT 4 is more than enough.
On the hoses will be Banjo fittings, they are called Banjo because of their shape, they look like small banjos. One of the hoses will have a straight banjo at one end, this is the top. The longer hose will be for the left hand caliper. The Banjos will be oriented on the hose such that they line up with the caliper bolts when the other end is attached to the master cylinder. So the first thing to do is to put the large banjo bolt through the top two banjos with the straight banjo closest to the master cylinder with the curved one curving away. Screw the bolt in part of the way just to position the hoses, you can fit the washers later when you know the hoses are the right way up. Now route the lines down to the calipers so they don't fowl any of the bikes bits and then position them with the bolts in the calipers. If the fittings don't line up properly with the calipers try the hose the other way up. Check the steering and suspension travel of the bike doesn't cause the hoses to stretch or fowl anything by steering lock to lock and lifting the front wheel off the ground (I once heard of a guy who made his own brake lines up, they didn't have enough slack, he pulled a wheelie and the forks extended pulling the hoses from the fittings leaving him with no brakes!!). Now you can secure the hoses to the calipers to the calipers and master cylinder not forgetting to put a washer each side of every banjo, three at the top, washer/banjo/washer/banjo/washer, two at the bottom, washer/banjo/washer. Make sure the hoses don't flap around in the breeze and the hard bit is done. All you have to do is bleed the buggers and you're away!!
3 line kits
The basic fitting is the same although the positioning is a little easier to see.
Bleeding (hell)
This is by far the most boring part of the entire process. What you need to do is remove the top from the master cylinder so that you can pour fluid in. You may find that the reservoir is completely empty so put some in and fill it to the top. Now using a piece of washer tube as a runoff pipe connect the caliper bleed nipples to a nearby empty container (a milk bottle is great but don't give it back to the milkie). Open the nipples and then pump the brake lever, you should see little bubbles coming up through the fluid in the reservoir, pump until fluid starts to dribble out the runoff tubes then close off the nipples. From now on you will either need an assistant or a lot of patients. Pull the lever backwards and at the same time open a nipple. Once the lever is all the way back to the bar, close the nipple and repeat. Do this on both sides until the fluid is coming out completely free from air bubbles and there is firm resistance from the lever when the nipples are closed. Pull the bar back with the nipples closed and check the system for leeks and recheck for chaffing and stretching. Put your tools away, hoses the front wheel down and go for a gentle (at first) test ride.
Cheating.
I used to fit Goodridge hoses as part of my job (If you have ever bought hoses from Skidmarx between 07/93 and 12/94 then I made them!) and I once spent almost an entire day trying to bleed the new hoses on my trust XJ650. I was getting nowhere. We had purchased one of those easy bleed things that you get for cars which has a cap that you screw over the top of the master cylinder. Then using a spare tyre as a pressure source you push fluid through the system so that all you have to do is open the bleed nipples and you're away!. This was a great idea, shame that bikes very mostly have square master cylinders with 2 securing screws. We had given up on this and thrown it into a corner in disgust. In desperation I retrieved the item from the corner (I didn't want to take the van home for a third night running!). Instead of trying to push fluid down the system, why not push it up and around the system? So I took the plastic adapter from the end of the easybleed and pushed the tube onto the bleed nipple on one of the calipers. On the other caliper I still had that runoff tube into a milk bottle. I opened both calipers and ensured that the top was on the master cylinder in case of blowback and then attached the easybleed to the front tyre. Whoosh!! fluid started spurting from the other caliper so I took the easybleed off the tyre and did up both nipples. Now with the system full of fluid with a little air rather than a system full of air with a little fluid I was able to give it a quick final bleed and voila! Bob's your auntie's new lodger. Quick test ride to the nearest garage for some air in the front tyre. Job Done.

It's a lot quicker to bleed up, than down.

Run a bit of clear tube from the bleed nipple UP to the handlebars, and stick the open end into the reservoir. Then do the normal bleeding thing, it's much quicker this way.