Feck me how to they do it? I ordered an RCD protected split load consumer unit (fuseboard), complete with 10 breakers, RCD and master switch already installed... 74 quid! The breakers alone are over 4 quid each.

The unit is from GE. I've just installed it today and it's all as you'd expect. It appears to be a good quality unit :) , the breakers work and the RCD works.

I changed the tails as well whilst there as they were 10mm2 but were protected by 110A master fuse, and replaced the earthing from bell wire (almost literally) to 16mm2 stuff. A good day's work, and the house's electrics are now proper.

We did find some interesting stuff, like the outside floodlight being wired to the upstairs lighting circuit... No fuse on the spur, just straight on there...

Oh, and two sockets in the garage being wired onto the immersion circuit. And no ring for the basement level, which was protected by a 30A fuse...

So I sorted those out too :D , and just for good measure put a circuit on the non-RCD side for the freezer only.

I'm really proud, which is sad, but it's quite satisfying to know that it ain't bodged :D

Cheers,
Nick.
(still slightly amazed at the price :D , and wondering if I'm in the wrong business!)

well,when you have the power of Kingfisher behind you..........................

Indeed, so why does B&Q not do the same sorta deals?

It's great to find somewhere that actually provides a good product at a good price with a good service.

I just bought the garage consumer unit from Screwfix. I think it caost about £35 delivered, B&Q wanted around £70 for exactly the same unit!

you didn't put the lights on the RCD side did you? a friend did this and when a bulb blows, guess what happens :D

we just fitted 2 hager units to the house, really good quality and even if you flip a breaker to a certain ciruit, if you go play with it, i.e. cut the dead cable it will still trip the RCD coz the earth + neutral came in contact - how super safe is that compared to the ceramic re-doable type fuses that were in there before!

cheers for the help, but I sorta have a bit of a clue :D

The RCD is protecting cooker and the house rings only. The other stuff (lights, freezer *only*, immersion) is on the non-rcd side.

B&Q doesn't do the same sort of deals because it doesnt ned to.95% of their customer base are home DIYers,and Screwfix is aimed at the trade market.

the deals that have just come through for this months B&Q catalogue are astounding,making way for the new products this Xmas.Check'em out,700w corded drill for £25,ideal if all you have is a 12v cordless

Fitted the same box to replace the original metal box in our house around 2 months ago. Pretty simple to fit (if you have a understanding of electrics) and took a couple of hours including working out what was connected where and converting some single sockets to twins. Got to play with my new sds drill :D

Just about to order their 12 way split box (which is cheaper!) to do my fathers.

[Edited by orbv - 8/31/2003 9:29:09 PM]

nick if the cable is up to it a radial can be fused with a 30A fuse..

Depends on length and cable :)

David

Standard 2.5mm cable... Anyhow, to my 'umble brain we'd got a 3kW washing machine on there (13A), plus freezer (3A?) plus that circuit is where I plug the lawnmower into... Hence it needed sorting IMHO.

The fact that the garage sockets were wired off the immersion has me flummoxed. I can't think of any reason why that is a good idea :D

So we now have three proper rings, and still a spare fuse for my Plans in the loft :D - or I could be really anal and run a separate ring for the home entertainment stuff :D

only if you dismantle the MCB to polish the contacts with brasso ;)


Lights - should they be a ring ? mine arent and I'd assumed they would be I guess.

Keep merryly adding more lights to mine and it occurred to me I really ought to find somewhere convenient to split the current circuit in 2.

Deano

Naah, my lights aren't in a ring. It's all protected by a 6A breaker...

As I (rather limitedly) understand it, a ring is necessary when you're dealing with potentially more current than the cable is rated for. EG 2.5mm2 twin and earth on a long run may be rather marginal when carrying the 32A that your breaker is rated at... Hence using a ring.

I could be horribly wrong. A little knowledge is a dangerous thing in my case :D

Lights - should they be a ring ? mine arent and I'd assumed they would be I guess.

Lights are normaly *not* on a ring.


Keep merryly adding more lights to mine and it occurred to me I really ought to find somewhere convenient to split the current circuit in 2.

Just calculate the total amps on the circuit as otherwise you could turn all the lights on and blow the fuse / breaker.

Exactly. It was while adding 300watts of halogens in the kitchen, a few 100wats in the loft etc ect I began to do the maths. I'll sit down and do it properly.

Unfortunatey consumer unit is a right PITA to get more cables to :(

deano

Lights are 90% allways on a radial, using 1mm or 1.5mm T&E

Nick..

2.5mm is rated at circa 15-20A.

A ring is normally fused a 30/32A.

It depends on the length / area covered..

David