top job :D , are the stair's staying there or are you moving them up a bit out of the way the door , you might trip as you come in ?

Good question - I'll look in a mo. There is a "petrol trap" going in, so the floor is being built up by about 6 inches just inside the door & there won't be a step over the door. Also stairs will be enclosed with stud partition & there will be fire-rated door into the garage itself.

I have bundles of wiring to do this week-end!!

Roofers turned up mob-handed @ 07:30...

Looks really good, I'm a little jealous.

As others have said, painting the inside white will improve the lighting dramatically. On the subject of lights, I install 2 circuits. One is fully flourescent and very bright for working. The other is a single fitting or a couple of bulb holders so that I don't have to power up ALL the big lights every time I put the car away.
I would also look at what sort of floor finish you want. Painted concrete is the absolute minimum. Again a light colour helps with light levels especially under a car. Paint needs to be applied befor any oil etc gets on the floor.

John

lol, bet they think you are a right dork keep taking pictures ;)

Looks really good, I'm a little jealous.

As others have said, painting the inside white will improve the lighting dramatically.
fook that, if that were mine i would be putting the wall paper and living in there with my tools :D

fook that, if that were mine i would be putting the wall paper and living in there with my tools :D


ROFL @ SM :D

We are thinking about getting an "Au Pair" for the summer hols & he/she'd live upstairs in the studio bit (an au pair 'cos it's a damn site cheaper than paying for holiday clubs/childcare :rolleyes: ) - so I guess you could move in too ;)



More pics tomorrow - roof is finished, 1st coat of paint on the edges, windows in :D

It is looking well good :)

Looks really good, I'm a little jealous.

As others have said, painting the inside white will improve the lighting dramatically. On the subject of lights, I install 2 circuits. One is fully flourescent and very bright for working. The other is a single fitting or a couple of bulb holders so that I don't have to power up ALL the big lights every time I put the car away.
I would also look at what sort of floor finish you want. Painted concrete is the absolute minimum. Again a light colour helps with light levels especially under a car. Paint needs to be applied befor any oil etc gets on the floor.

John


Good idea re the double circuit... I've got a separate one for the side-door lobby so I could just extend it into the garage & save the flourescents.




Flourescents - long ways or across ways?

Too late ;)

Long day today :rolleyes:

Put in the downstairs ring-main, installed the downstairs flourescents, the lobby light circuit & the main upstairs light circuit - whilst working as well...

Got the upstairs ring, a second (small) ring for PCs only & a secondary light circuit to go - hopefully get some time tomorrow but we have friends coming over for lunch :( Wonder if he's any good at DIY ;)



More photos below of current state. As you can see, it has come on a lot in the last few days...

A sort of walk-about series

http://www.goorey.com/house/g30.jpg

http://www.goorey.com/house/g31.jpg

http://www.goorey.com/house/g32.jpg

http://www.goorey.com/house/g33.jpg

http://www.goorey.com/house/g34.jpg


The area where my workbench will be

http://www.goorey.com/house/g35.jpg


& the view from the upstairs :)


http://www.goorey.com/house/g36.jpg


More pics soon but atm there's a mass of danging wires, so doesn't look pretty...

:)

i wish i was rich enough to afford a garage like that..........

Looks really good.

Did you think about a different roof shape to give you more standing room upstairs?

Top notch PMW :D

Better late than never :D:D

http://www.securitybasics.co.uk/acatalog/Chubb.html you need to get a 3G114 or a 3G110 with a double pole micro switch fitted :D

Or go to the local locksmith they be able to help Puff ;)


Give me a call if you need more details

Is that round conduit your using?

If so, you cannot put 2x 2.5mm cables in 20mm Round Conduit.

David

It's 25mm conduit

&

why not out of interest?

Better late than never :D:D

http://www.securitybasics.co.uk/acatalog/Chubb.html you need to get a 3G114 or a 3G110 with a double pole micro switch fitted :D

Or go to the local locksmith they be able to help Puff ;)


Give me a call if you need more details


Ordered...

Flourescents - long ways or across ways?[/QUOTE]


Probably too late now - but longways.
You don't want to waste light on the roof of the car. For your garage layout, I would put lights down each side, about 18" in to allow for shelves, and down the centre to light the area between the cars. After that, put some directly over the workbench. You can rarely have too much light there and you don't want to be working in your own shadow. I also noticed that there isn't a window by the benck area so there's no natural light.
Don't forget to light the area for any tools such as lathe as well but be carefull of flourescents here. I have never seen the effect but normal flourescents strobe at mains freqency. That can make rotating machines apear still. Rather nasty when you grab that saw blade to find it's still going round at 3000 rpm!
As you have stairs, you can fasten shelves under them. Just screw some timber under the treads extending out about 8" for small parts storage.

John

PTMW,

The only problem is that in conduit, with more than a 50% or so filling factor, the air cannot convect well to get the heat out to the masonary around it.

2.5mm² is rated at 23A in conduit.

But if your putting two cables in the one length conduit then you have to apply a grouping factor.. (http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Figures/Tab4.4.htm) (0.8 in your case)
So you de-rate the current carrying capactity..

basically you normally use singles in conduit, not T&E :) but then you still have problems.. Easiest way is run the ring horizontally rather than vertical drops, then you only have one cable through each length.. and lets not mention bends :D

Worst case scenario, your electrician may not certify the installation, if he wont, fit a 20A type B breaker for the ring, and if you should accidently change it back to a 32a breaker after then who's to know ;)

I wouldnt ever worry about it, but the problem is now getting that certificate ;) Damn Part P ;) :D

David

David

Now I know :rolleyes:

It is 25mm & only max 2m lengths (6 of) & 1.2m lengths (3 of) - otherwise its just floorboards...

So for 2 x 2.5mm T&E in earth in 20mm conduit - what's the max current ?

Its just I've got 2 x 2.5mm T&E in 20mm throughout my garage.....(ring is at ceiling height, so drops have both in)

http://www.eatworms.org.uk/garagenew1.jpg

That is the Volvo fits in the garage without retracting the wing mirrors!!!

:Suspiciou

:D

All the scaffolding away today, means I can prepare the ground to move the garden shed that was plonked on the veg patch. Downside is having to paint all the eaves etc using a ladder not scaffolding.

Floor upstairs all in place & looking good. Saves me trying to avoid missing the beams when wandering around up there!

dsmith... 32a as far as you are concerned;)

As far as when a wiring inspection / issuing of certificate is concerned... Less.

David

Oi "update please" :rolleyes: :p

Well I checked - and actually its only a 20A breaker for the ring in the garage so its fully legit. Think I erred on the side of caution because of the size of cable from house and size of breaker in the main board.

oh....you meant from Puff....;)

OK, OK...

Well, we've had the scaffolding down, so it all looks a bit cleaner. Still got to apply paint to various bits but some has been done. However looking much more tidy :)

http://www.goorey.com/house/g37.jpg

http://www.goorey.com/house/g38.jpg


Progressed with the leccy bits, but less pressure since I've put all the wiring in before the plastering is done...

My strips

http://www.goorey.com/house/g40.jpg

& where sockets etc will be

http://www.goorey.com/house/g41.jpg



The main thing I did this weekend just past, was to dismantle the shed that was plonked unceremoniously on the vegatable patch by fork-lift

here

http://www.goorey.com/house/g4.jpg

& dug foundations, rebuilt & re-felted the whole bloody lot

here

http://www.goorey.com/house/g42.jpg :D



This is a bit of a before & after pic


http://www.goorey.com/house/g21.jpg

& after

http://www.goorey.com/house/g39.jpg

which has got to be my favourite pic of the moment :D

Grass coming on, slowly but nicely :D

:cool:




At the moment, the upstairs has been plasterboarded and the bit around the side-door and stairs has been started to be stud-partitioned. Should all be finito by the end of next week - can't wait for doors!!

Oh - other than the electrics & whatever Huxley needs to do :rolleyes:

:D

spot on :D :thumb: PMW

James - looking good mate.

I'd consider a gutter where the shed meets the garage wall though, to keep the area between dry.

Already thought of that one but thank you.

Piece of guttering at an angle to keep off the wall then dropping onto a bit slopping back & out the other side.

I've tried to make the underneath rodent proof :rolleyes:

Looks excellent Puff,

HAve you double skinned the plasterboard on the ceiling?? If the stud work around the stairs needs to be fireproofed then it would be best to use firecheck plasterboard.... it's pink, and has double the standard boards fire resistance.....
Just a thought....

Ron.

Ron

Ceiling is double-skinned - fortunately since I missed the rafters a couple of times when doing the wiring :eek:

As to pink, no. My daughter does pink but not for me in my garage :D ;)



Anyhow, we now have doors :D

I have to paint them this week-end as well as cut holes for the leccy things in the plasterboard upstairs b4 it gets plastered...

Pics over the week-end

:)