OK - I really do need help on this one

Having removed the plastic sheeting inside the door trim to get to fit my new speakers, the old black gungy sealant did not come off neatly. http://www.stopstart.freeserve.co.uk/smilie/2.gif

So, can I get replacement stuff and how much / where from OR is there an alternative solution?

Any suggestions gratefully received

Nigeyboy

Having removed the plastic sheeting inside the door trim to get to fit my new speakers, the old black gungy sealant did not come off neatly.

Rarely does, although heating the vapor shield with a hair dryer prior to removal can make the job easier (for future reference!) ;)

If most of it's still there, odds are it can be re-used. However, if you want to replace/augment it, you can get mastic sealants from builders merchants/DIY stores. Failing that, some silicone sealant will do the job. Either way, a tube/cartridge of the stuff shouldn't cost much more than three or four quid.

[Edited by greasemonkey - 6/25/2003 3:05:09 PM]

You don't actually need that stuff IMHO. Looking at the door cards, they're plastic on the back which ain't going to rot in the water...

I've got rid of mine and put shedloads of dynamat on 'em ;)

If the vapour shields are removed completely, wouldn't there be a greater tendency for car steaming up in wet weather?

use silicone sealer or sikaflex (the latter will never come off)

petrol will probably clean existing stuff off..

David

Not steaming up yet mate. Besides the vapour shields have holes in them for various bits anyhow...

Don't get the sikaflex stuff on your fingers takes for ever to get off, but as David W says will stick anything to everything.

I'm sure I read somewhere that some of the ingredients in silicone tube things aren't friendly to copper fittings (speaker voice-coils etc).

I think it was a 'how to build your bass enclosure' article in a mag. They recommended not using silicone or making sure it was all cured before fitting the speaker.

Vindaloo.

Some brands of silicone sealant give off large quantities of acetic acid when they cure, which WILL attack copper.
Many don't now.
Alcazar

So then,

sealant seems to do the trick, but has anybody sourced directly the replacement black gungy stuff?

its not copper it attacks that matters.. they attack the butyl (cant spell today) rubber surrounds on some speakers and subs..

it only gives this off when drying.. so once cured its fine...

if its for a sub box use decorators caulk instead.

David

You can spell today mate ;)

And it is the butyl rubber that you have to worry about, that's all... Once cured, silicone is more flexible and lasts longer than decorators caulk so I still use it. Just be aware of it, or use a speaker that has been treated to withstand the gas - JL Audio woofers have this treatment for sure, others do too

i still wouldnt recommend it with JL as if you look on their installs pages they still say to wait for it to dry..

Besides...

It doesnt matter once its dry..

and after its dry..
paint the box three or four times on the inside with paint..
then trim.. then let spray glue dry.. then fit sub.. then

RUN THE SUB IN.



[Edited by David_Wallis - 6/26/2003 4:19:10 PM]

Black Gungy Stuff......Anybody??

http://www.stopstart.freeserve.co.uk/smilie/smokin.gif

Told u up top Nige. ;)

Mastic sealant from your local DIY store, builders merchants or similar. Doesn't have to be black, seeing as nobody's gonna see it anyway...

Thx Greasmonkey

The thread got a bit teccy with talk of gases coroding rubber etc..

Perhaps one should refrain from farting during sex too!!

I've got the mastic hint, but I was just checking to see if anyone got the original black stuff

NB

The original black stuff is just black mastic. If you bought it through a Subaru dealer though, you can bet it'd cost many times what you'd pay from the likes of B&Q.