Glad it`s sorted and good luck from here on in. You and John have both had more than your fair share of bad luck.

John, you saied that you don't use MAF sensor with genuine remapped ECU.... how do you do that ????

Not quite yet, but now it is up and running again I will be doing road trials soon.

You take the MAP signal and RPM and multiply them together to make a simulated MAF signal. Temperature correction will follow once the basic system is working. There is a thread on 22b in the ECU section on it.

The advantage is that you remove the unreliability of the MAF sensor, the restriction, the flow limitations and the space the sensor takes up restricting choice of air filter.

The disadvantage is that you have to remap a lot more every time you change the volumetric efficiency.

MAF is very forgiving - you can run a 2.5 litre engine with a 2.0 ECU for example and it can be astonishingly good. My 2.0 map would run fine on the 2.5 except for a few tweaks to idle and it being a little too rich and retarded, but it ran and worked.

Did you have std injectors in though John, were they 740's or 550's?

bob

550s and APS induction map for the 2.0 chocked full with octane booster worked quite well on the 2.3s and then the 2.5 without booster. It was a bit rich on part throttle as the load sites accessed were quite far to the right. Ignition was pretty close. I was astonished just how well it worked. Not suggesting a complete solution by any means, but surprising how it coped.

Using the 740s dramatically improved the idle and starting - disc rather than pintle style injectors - had suffered a long time not realising this was the problem with my rough idle.

John,

You have better idle with the 740´s? What make injectors are they?

Mark.

Much better idle, but the 550s were poor. Tomei/Nissan from Phase2motortrend in the US.

The 550s injectors are they STi genuine ones (from STi7) ????

What about the IC ?? FMIC.

Here in France we are often looking for APS FMIC but some peoples saying that they aren't no so good.
What do you think about it ??

Happy with my APS IC. The 550s were from an RX7.

But you said that they are too poor..so witch injectors are you looking for ?? HOOPS sorry the answer was juste two post ago

[Edited by ChewieSTi - 1/20/2004 12:08:36 PM]

If you can get JECS 550s with disc style rather than pintle style caps they may be better?

yes you can get them. I had intended to get some for harvey, but haven't been able to sort he details in time for him.

However, anyone interested in trying a set could contact me.

Paul

Paul,

Did you supply John with the 740´s?

Mark.

Hi Paul: As it has come up, am I OK for injectors and fitting kit for Saturday?

but the 550s were poor.

Tell me about it..

Paul you have mail coming regarding 550 injectors..

Simon

yes harvey, all on schedule.

paul

Magifico.

JGM ... I have mapped several cars using Pauls 550's, including factory ecu, and not had any idle issues, Johns comments re 740's are related as much to what suits the settings in the ecu that he can't alter as to the injectors imho. In otherwords don't be too quick to blame something that is topical ... as my advice.

cheers

bob

Bob,

It is me clutching at straws.. Pat is mapping the car on Friday and so I should relax but I am annoyed that the car has beaten me.

Many thanks

Simon (Failed engine mapper :) )

simon.. only failed for trying.

Well it starts, it drives with a good AFR, only knock is when I am trying to map it so getting the heat right up, fuel economy is good, boost control needs a little work, idle is way to rich and I have given up on it.. :)

Emissions issues have just mean the wife has allowed the funds to be released to pay Pat to map it :)

Simon

John,

What regulator/pressure did you use with the 550's?

FSE as with 740s.

Bit more fiddling now the box is well run in....

At 1.35 bar at 5500 RPM it makes about 340 WHP on Delta Dash with a weak NF mix, water not fully plumbed in yet. At 1.15 bar at 6200 it still makes 340 WHP.

Go beyond these boost levels on this octane and it makes no more power and just gets hotter and sounds strained.

Not surprising given that I am dropping 10% of atmospheric in my inlet system, and a further 0.1 bar from compressor to inlet manifold. So that at 1.25 bar at 7000 RPM to which it boost creeps I am running PR of 2.6... edge of the compressor map here is 2.4. If I can get it down to 1.2 bar at 7000 RPM and halve the pressure drop in the inlet I should be able to get it down to a PR of 2.4 and then advance the ignition - resulting in hopefully more power and/or cooler EGTs, as well as reducing its hunger for octane.

Will be trying to change the inlet when I get the filter this week....

Clipped turbine wheel might be a nice way to free it up a tiny bit as well as reduce the boost creep.

Looking at an Ion turbo, but the flow potential is on paper only about 10% higher with a rated flow of 53 lb/min max, 47 at peak efficiency, which translates to 767 CFM and 680 CFM compared to 690 and 640 CFM for the 20G.

Garrett GT30R.

I reakon on sub 3000rpm for 1 bar boost out of 2.5, with nigh on 500hp power potential.

external wastegate, yummy.

Paul

Source? Since this is now my only car (ooh what faith in the 6MT ;) ) I want to have something bolt-on... if that means a new uppipe and downpipe that is OK, but it needs to be a retail kit really.

No retail kit as such, but I am sure something could be arranged. MAF usage with no bend in inlet seems to be a little of an issue, Pat has a GT30 on his legacy and has had MAF problems with it just 6 inches from compressor wheel. Skylines don't have this problem though, so I think it can be got around.

Paul

Also sounds a bit massive from the descriptions on NASIOC - like an AVO 500 which appears to struggle until 5000 RPM for good spool up on the 2.0s.

Are they all fitting the biggest housings?

Pat has a GT30 on his legacy and has had MAF problems with it just 6 inches from compressor wheel.

No MAF housing on there now..

Simon

GT30R seems to be getting about 400WHP on the 2.0 with race gas, or about 350WHP without. Not really worth changing to? But I can't assume the dyno numbers are comparable...