Sti7 Clunking, owners with problem, one post each..
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Guys
Just phoned my dealer regarding the shock which is on backorder.
They have just told me that the shock does not need replacing and its something to do with the top mounts. They are getting a technical report from subaru today or tomorrow.
Shaun
Just phoned my dealer regarding the shock which is on backorder.
They have just told me that the shock does not need replacing and its something to do with the top mounts. They are getting a technical report from subaru today or tomorrow.
Shaun
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Me too!!
Knocking noise from NSR suspension
May 2002 Type UK Prodrive 1,100 miles
Mentioned it to dealer at first service last week - they said it was the jack and was now ok but it sounds no different to me!!
Looks like another trip to my dealer.
PS anyone have starting problems?
Knocking noise from NSR suspension
May 2002 Type UK Prodrive 1,100 miles
Mentioned it to dealer at first service last week - they said it was the jack and was now ok but it sounds no different to me!!
Looks like another trip to my dealer.
PS anyone have starting problems?
Thread Starter
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Mentioned it to my dealer yesterday (Robinsons Rochdale) - I've been waiting to see if there's an answer before dealing with it as they're quite a long way from me.
Anyway they seem to have sold a lot of STi's - but the bloke in the service department said that they'd only been notified of 1 other case of the knocking sound and were having that car in yesterday to look at it.
This is leading me to wonder whether they realise the scope of the problem?
If it was your car in yesterday what was the outcome?
Nick
Anyway they seem to have sold a lot of STi's - but the bloke in the service department said that they'd only been notified of 1 other case of the knocking sound and were having that car in yesterday to look at it.
This is leading me to wonder whether they realise the scope of the problem?
If it was your car in yesterday what was the outcome?
Nick
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From: MY00,MY01,RX-8, Alfa 147 & Focus ST :-)
Not an STI, but I've also had a knocking noise from the nsr on my MY01. This has been diagnosed as a failed strut and will be replaced on Wednesday by Lavender Hill, so I'll let you know how I get on. The noise is very noticeable when going over bumps and especially with 4 up in the car.
Chris
Chris
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Well the plot thickens I'm afraid.I had horrible rattling/clunking from my passenger rear(ooer!) sounded like the car was about to fall to pieces.Had full Leda set up a few weeks ago and the clunking has gone but there is still a rattle! About 85% better than before but still there.The top mounts were changed at the same time.D'ont know what to make of this...
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May 2002 STi UK Prodrive.
No definate clunk but a rattle, nearside rear.
The rattle was being caused by the parcel shelf retaining clip (there are 4 beige coloured panel clips that hold it to the car), not being correctly located in the car bodywork.
I pushed down on the parcel shelf to locate it, and now, no rattle.
If you look inside the boot at the underside of the parcel shelf area, you will see the 4 clips I mention. They are a simmilar type as those used to hold door cards onto the doors.
On my car the nearside one was not located and rattled loudly against the hole in the bodywork, on slightly bumpy surfaces.
The other thing that struck me as odd, on my car at least, after reading all the posts on the BBS implying the suspension was to blame, was that when I hit good sized bumps, potholes etc with fair force such that your elbow banged on the centre arm rest and hurt, there was NO UNUSUAL NOISE AT ALL from the suspension.
This isn't to say people are not suffering from suspension /strut problems, but I don't think I was.
Another point you may or may not have noticed, is that the spoiler rattles when it vibrates.
Try banging it with your fist in the middle of the top blade.
Mine makes a fair racket.
I attempted to tighten the upper half to the lower half by removing the access panels at each side, (you lever the most forward end out with a screwdriver first, then pull towards you and unclip the middle and aft ends), but it hasn't made any difference.
I suspect the only proper cure would be to seperate the two halves and reassemble them with rubberised/silicone jointing compound to effectively glue the halves together.
But a word of warning, if you attempt to do this and during the loosening or tightening of the nuts, any of the studs revolve in the spoiler. You will have a very fiddly repair to carry out refixing the studs in place, and may wreck the spoiler.
You really need specialist equipment to hold the screw slot still, whilst turning the nut, which at these positions you cannot access with a spanner, but need a box spanner (this would work in conjunction with a screwdriver although it would be fiddly) or a socket.
Deep Singh,
I hope for your sake that this is not the problem you have, otherwise you have just spent £1500? fitting Leda suspension to cure a rattling parcel shelf, which can be fixed by hand pressure.!!!
EDITED TO ADD A COPY OF MY REPLY ON THE STi CLUNKING THREAD
Deep Singh,
Just to ease your mind, I removed and stripped my rear nearside strut tonight, and discovered some lateral play in the piston. When fully extended it quite clearly could be made to rock by about 0.040" (1mm) at the very top of the piston rod when fully extended, and consequently knock.
Not by any great amount, and I wouldn't wish to frighten anybody into rushing out to replace all their suspension on the strength of it.
It is very unlikely that it would ever fail, and it is obviously neccessary to have sufficient clearance between the piston rod and the internal guide bushing within the strut to allow free movement.
Too much play and they knock, but still damp the springs oscillations, too little play and they could limit movement and or seize, rendering them useless as dampers.
It may however require replacement, and I will discuss with my dealer tomorrow.
There must be a design tolerance for the amount of free play deemed permissable, although I suspect it is probably very tight,
and the cars exhibiting the slight knocking may well have struts that fall outside the expected range.
According to the senior mechanic the P1's are also prone to the same strut to piston play as discovered on the STi 7's, and they also use the'red' STi type struts obviously as they used STi 5 struts with fresh springs on them.
I feel quite happy now I believe I have sussed out what is causing MY rattle/knock. It is irksome but by no means end of the world mustn't drive my car, is it going to fall to pieces type of problem.
In my case the amount of play is FAR LESS than the movement allowed by the rubber suspension bushing, and as such wwill not create a massive variation in suspension geometry.
When you carry out a 4 wheel alignment with laser tracking equipment, and set to decimals of degrees, you can temporarily alter the settings by simple hand pressure on the wheels after everything is tightened up, I know because I have done it.
These are road cars not steel rose jointed F1 cars where 0.5mm or 0.020" difference in ride height wrecks the cars handling.
I am confident it IS DEFINATELY NOT THE TOP MOUNT. The dealers that are saying that are best guessing.
The rear top mount is so basic (steel and rubber, with no bearings or moving parts, as I guessed it might be) it is pretty unlikely one would fail on a road car.
Cheers MTR
[Edited by MTR - 6/27/2002 12:41:17 PM]
No definate clunk but a rattle, nearside rear.
The rattle was being caused by the parcel shelf retaining clip (there are 4 beige coloured panel clips that hold it to the car), not being correctly located in the car bodywork.
I pushed down on the parcel shelf to locate it, and now, no rattle.
If you look inside the boot at the underside of the parcel shelf area, you will see the 4 clips I mention. They are a simmilar type as those used to hold door cards onto the doors.
On my car the nearside one was not located and rattled loudly against the hole in the bodywork, on slightly bumpy surfaces.
The other thing that struck me as odd, on my car at least, after reading all the posts on the BBS implying the suspension was to blame, was that when I hit good sized bumps, potholes etc with fair force such that your elbow banged on the centre arm rest and hurt, there was NO UNUSUAL NOISE AT ALL from the suspension.
This isn't to say people are not suffering from suspension /strut problems, but I don't think I was.
Another point you may or may not have noticed, is that the spoiler rattles when it vibrates.
Try banging it with your fist in the middle of the top blade.
Mine makes a fair racket.
I attempted to tighten the upper half to the lower half by removing the access panels at each side, (you lever the most forward end out with a screwdriver first, then pull towards you and unclip the middle and aft ends), but it hasn't made any difference.
I suspect the only proper cure would be to seperate the two halves and reassemble them with rubberised/silicone jointing compound to effectively glue the halves together.
But a word of warning, if you attempt to do this and during the loosening or tightening of the nuts, any of the studs revolve in the spoiler. You will have a very fiddly repair to carry out refixing the studs in place, and may wreck the spoiler.
You really need specialist equipment to hold the screw slot still, whilst turning the nut, which at these positions you cannot access with a spanner, but need a box spanner (this would work in conjunction with a screwdriver although it would be fiddly) or a socket.
Deep Singh,
I hope for your sake that this is not the problem you have, otherwise you have just spent £1500? fitting Leda suspension to cure a rattling parcel shelf, which can be fixed by hand pressure.!!!
EDITED TO ADD A COPY OF MY REPLY ON THE STi CLUNKING THREAD
Deep Singh,
Just to ease your mind, I removed and stripped my rear nearside strut tonight, and discovered some lateral play in the piston. When fully extended it quite clearly could be made to rock by about 0.040" (1mm) at the very top of the piston rod when fully extended, and consequently knock.
Not by any great amount, and I wouldn't wish to frighten anybody into rushing out to replace all their suspension on the strength of it.
It is very unlikely that it would ever fail, and it is obviously neccessary to have sufficient clearance between the piston rod and the internal guide bushing within the strut to allow free movement.
Too much play and they knock, but still damp the springs oscillations, too little play and they could limit movement and or seize, rendering them useless as dampers.
It may however require replacement, and I will discuss with my dealer tomorrow.
There must be a design tolerance for the amount of free play deemed permissable, although I suspect it is probably very tight,
and the cars exhibiting the slight knocking may well have struts that fall outside the expected range.
According to the senior mechanic the P1's are also prone to the same strut to piston play as discovered on the STi 7's, and they also use the'red' STi type struts obviously as they used STi 5 struts with fresh springs on them.
I feel quite happy now I believe I have sussed out what is causing MY rattle/knock. It is irksome but by no means end of the world mustn't drive my car, is it going to fall to pieces type of problem.
In my case the amount of play is FAR LESS than the movement allowed by the rubber suspension bushing, and as such wwill not create a massive variation in suspension geometry.
When you carry out a 4 wheel alignment with laser tracking equipment, and set to decimals of degrees, you can temporarily alter the settings by simple hand pressure on the wheels after everything is tightened up, I know because I have done it.
These are road cars not steel rose jointed F1 cars where 0.5mm or 0.020" difference in ride height wrecks the cars handling.
I am confident it IS DEFINATELY NOT THE TOP MOUNT. The dealers that are saying that are best guessing.
The rear top mount is so basic (steel and rubber, with no bearings or moving parts, as I guessed it might be) it is pretty unlikely one would fail on a road car.
Cheers MTR
[Edited by MTR - 6/27/2002 12:41:17 PM]
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Peter Chan,
Fuji Heavy Industries (Subaru Japan) have a 1 year warranty on all cars they make, regardless of where in the world they are supplied. In the established dealer network, all warranty work in the 1st year is claimed back from them.
If you contact them direct, I'm sure you can convince them to send you the replacement parts (for free obviously
) and I'd have a stab at getting them to pay the labour too....
Matt
Even in Singapore. JDM version 7 NBR - STI suspension. Knocking noise from left rear. Got no warranty because of self import. Sigh!
If you contact them direct, I'm sure you can convince them to send you the replacement parts (for free obviously
) and I'd have a stab at getting them to pay the labour too....Matt
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FWIW, all those with "rattles" should know that the rear seat belt reels are very close to one of the brackets around the rear "bulkhead". Shift it a bit and it contacts the metal, making the rattling.
If you're experiencing it, suggest you just buckle the rear seat belt and put in in tension (somehow, or get someone to tug at it while you drive). If it goes away, thats it.
If you're experiencing it, suggest you just buckle the rear seat belt and put in in tension (somehow, or get someone to tug at it while you drive). If it goes away, thats it.
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From: Cornwall
UK Prodrive - Apr 2002 - 1700 miles. nsr been making the clunking noise from day 1 and gradually gettting worse. Seems to be most prevalent when going round left had bend and even more so under breaking, ie when wait lifts off the shock, so points at being something like a top mount. dealer unwilling to do anything until an official fix from Subaru is sent out.
Chris
Chris
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From: MY00,MY01,RX-8, Alfa 147 & Focus ST :-)
An update for you. I had the nsr strut replaced yesterday by Lavender Hill. It has cured the problem and I now have no rattle I don't believe this is really related to the problems experienced by STI owners, but it is good to know that it can be sorted out. Thanks to Shark at Lavender Hill for his help.
Cheers
Chris
I don't believe this is really related to the problems experienced by STI owners, but it is good to know that it can be sorted out. Thanks to Shark at Lavender Hill for his help.Cheers
Chris
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NOPE
Shock absorber replaced 1000 mi, Topmount replaced today 3000 Mi problem still apparent
Parcel shelf, Jack, Tools, and Seatbelt reel all checked, Exhaust well clear. Whither next? Cross posting to other threads
Phil
Shock absorber replaced 1000 mi, Topmount replaced today 3000 Mi problem still apparent
Parcel shelf, Jack, Tools, and Seatbelt reel all checked, Exhaust well clear. Whither next? Cross posting to other threadsPhil
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MY02 Sti 7 - Prodrive
Intermitant knocking from left rear, seems to only happen when under less load then the other side (e.g. taking left handers whilst on the brakes or if that wheel drops away coz of hole)
Also get the same noise from the front right under similar conditions.
Intermitant knocking from left rear, seems to only happen when under less load then the other side (e.g. taking left handers whilst on the brakes or if that wheel drops away coz of hole)
Also get the same noise from the front right under similar conditions.
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Bizarre!
I have got exactly the same problem with a Sti Version 4!
I mentioned this same problem in a Scooby thread earlier in the year.
In this thread I used the almost the exact same wording as 'Chris L' where he writes "the noise is very noticeable when going over bumps and especially with 4 up in the car".
At the time my garage thought it was the C/V joint and recommend I have the left hand rear axle changed.
I still haven't had this work done so can't confirm either way if they were right.
Mark.
I have got exactly the same problem with a Sti Version 4!
I mentioned this same problem in a Scooby thread earlier in the year.
In this thread I used the almost the exact same wording as 'Chris L' where he writes "the noise is very noticeable when going over bumps and especially with 4 up in the car".
At the time my garage thought it was the C/V joint and recommend I have the left hand rear axle changed.
I still haven't had this work done so can't confirm either way if they were right.
Mark.
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From: Cardiff. Wales
Yep, knocking from left rear. Car bought early May. Had fisrt service today, told dealer who said he'd phone SUK technical on Mon then ring me.
I'll let you know result.
Chip.
Edited to say its a Prodrive.
[Edited by Chip - 6/22/2002 3:02:51 PM]
I'll let you know result.
Chip.
Edited to say its a Prodrive.
[Edited by Chip - 6/22/2002 3:02:51 PM]
