"Back to the future," in a JDM STI Ver-9 Widetrack
13 March 2012, 03:32 PM
#214
Update:
-Did an oil and filter change last week. The car sounds much better on cold start up now on 10w 40w Gulf Motorsport oil than the winter oil which was IMO a bit too thin at 5w 30w. The slight piston slap sound that I would get for the first 2 minutes has now disappeared.
-The constant annoying rattle from the up pipe heat shield has been fixed and its amazing how such a small thing can make such a big difference in driving pleasure!
On a side note:
The car has been sounding not too healthy and seemed a bit down on power. Could it be valve clearances, piston rings etc etc ??
Did a coolant test for any particles that shouldn't be and that was fine, so no head gasket issues.
Did a compression test, figures were slightly different from before but the one cylinder difference remained the same as before and all others were still equal. So this was also inconclusive.
Hmmm then on comes the CEL fault light, so one thing leading to another Im thinking maybe top end rebuild. So I thought I might as well get some prices for a top end rebuild / Stroker kit
These things aren't cheap as I found out. And its a good thing they'r not as I would have just got it done without going back to the issue again for a rethink!
First step is make sure the fault codes are related to what I think the problem may be and not just a ruse. So maybe a Misfire fault code or some such?
I tried to read the fault codes with Learning View on Romraider but for some reason could not open the file with Excel without it being jumbled up. Romraider works fine but that wont read fault codes. I then tried EcuExplorer which just didnt want to connect to the ECU. I then almost gave up and rang Duncan who suggested EcuEdit & if that doesnt work he'l try & pop round one day this week. Thankfully EcuEdit is quite user friendly and worked straight away. I spoke to Duncan again and we realised the fault codes, all four were just due to the various sensors being dis connected during the compression test i.e. maf, crank, coil pack etc & nothing else. So I cleared the fault codes, took it for a blast & no CEL lights came back. So this was nothing to do with my slight lack of power and odd sound / feel.
Today while driving to work the turbo sounded noisier than normal and whilst hard accelerating I heard what sounded like a really awful fleebay dump valve sound coming from the engine! Could it be a boost leak somewhere causing this odd behaviour? So I checked all intercooler hoses, vacum pipes etc, boost solenoid connections and re fitted recir dump valve & tightened the Forge actuator housing etc etc. I then happened to notice my turbo inlet hose which was already quite frayed and battered, now looked like it was'nt sitting properly on the turbo inlet. In fact it the jubilee clip had worked itself really lose and the inlet was half off!!! So after I re fitted this end on and tightened it up properly it was now a proper fit. (will need to get a new silicone inlet hose)
Turned the ignition and "bobs your uncle"
the cars back to the way it was!!! Took it for a blast & its never felt better or faster before!!! lol I think this may be the first time in life Iv managed to un-cross thread something!! 
-Did an oil and filter change last week. The car sounds much better on cold start up now on 10w 40w Gulf Motorsport oil than the winter oil which was IMO a bit too thin at 5w 30w. The slight piston slap sound that I would get for the first 2 minutes has now disappeared.
-The constant annoying rattle from the up pipe heat shield has been fixed and its amazing how such a small thing can make such a big difference in driving pleasure!
On a side note:
The car has been sounding not too healthy and seemed a bit down on power. Could it be valve clearances, piston rings etc etc ??
Did a coolant test for any particles that shouldn't be and that was fine, so no head gasket issues.
Did a compression test, figures were slightly different from before but the one cylinder difference remained the same as before and all others were still equal. So this was also inconclusive.
Hmmm then on comes the CEL fault light, so one thing leading to another Im thinking maybe top end rebuild. So I thought I might as well get some prices for a top end rebuild / Stroker kit
These things aren't cheap as I found out. And its a good thing they'r not as I would have just got it done without going back to the issue again for a rethink!First step is make sure the fault codes are related to what I think the problem may be and not just a ruse. So maybe a Misfire fault code or some such?
I tried to read the fault codes with Learning View on Romraider but for some reason could not open the file with Excel without it being jumbled up. Romraider works fine but that wont read fault codes. I then tried EcuExplorer which just didnt want to connect to the ECU. I then almost gave up and rang Duncan who suggested EcuEdit & if that doesnt work he'l try & pop round one day this week. Thankfully EcuEdit is quite user friendly and worked straight away. I spoke to Duncan again and we realised the fault codes, all four were just due to the various sensors being dis connected during the compression test i.e. maf, crank, coil pack etc & nothing else. So I cleared the fault codes, took it for a blast & no CEL lights came back. So this was nothing to do with my slight lack of power and odd sound / feel.
Today while driving to work the turbo sounded noisier than normal and whilst hard accelerating I heard what sounded like a really awful fleebay dump valve sound coming from the engine! Could it be a boost leak somewhere causing this odd behaviour? So I checked all intercooler hoses, vacum pipes etc, boost solenoid connections and re fitted recir dump valve & tightened the Forge actuator housing etc etc. I then happened to notice my turbo inlet hose which was already quite frayed and battered, now looked like it was'nt sitting properly on the turbo inlet. In fact it the jubilee clip had worked itself really lose and the inlet was half off!!! So after I re fitted this end on and tightened it up properly it was now a proper fit. (will need to get a new silicone inlet hose)
Turned the ignition and "bobs your uncle"
the cars back to the way it was!!! Took it for a blast & its never felt better or faster before!!! lol I think this may be the first time in life Iv managed to un-cross thread something!!
Last edited by rickya; 13 March 2012 at 04:12 PM.
14 March 2012, 11:41 AM
#215
Just ordered:
Which should be fun trying to fit without removing the intake manifold
And need to fit from recent order from RCM: Turbo return paper gasket & Heat wrap for downpipe.
Which should be fun trying to fit without removing the intake manifold
And need to fit from recent order from RCM: Turbo return paper gasket & Heat wrap for downpipe.
Last edited by rickya; 14 March 2012 at 02:15 PM.
25 March 2012, 04:15 PM
#219
6 hours, 10 shredded fingers, one bruised elbow, stiff aching back.......never again......but I managed to fit the dam thing without taking off the inlet manifold!!!!! Would have been 2 hours quicker if it was made better. It was at least one inch too long on the turbo end, so the bit that goes to the recirc dump valve is too far forward. So several fitting and trimmings later it was done. In hindsight it would have been much better to have taken off the inlet manifold.
Still need a airbox to inlet silicone joiner hose but may just go cold air intake instead and just do away with the airbox altogether.
Last edited by rickya; 17 July 2012 at 11:28 AM.
25 March 2012, 08:45 PM
#220
Bodged together a temporary airbox to inlet joiner hose. Not ideal but was able to test it all out. No boost leaks and car didn't blow up which means I put it all back together fine! But over approx 5k revs I am getting the Inlet closing in on itself I think. Could be near the bodged joint as I have not put the metal reinforced ring in there yet?
I dont think its the fault of the hose entirely as it is a good one :
"Silicone rubber construction with smooth wipe down finish. Temperature range -50C to 220C. Thickness = 5mm with four mesh Polyester or Nomex layers to enable higher pressure than original rubber hose does."
I think these should be used with an Induction kit and not a std airbox. The std airbox being more restrictive than an Induction kit is causing a vacum, pre-turbo, under high boost. This wasnt a problem with the original inlet hose which was hard plastic, smaller in overall size/volume and less free flowing. So with that in mind and a mission for more airflow Iv just bought this off a friend on Scoobynet.
APS 70mm Inner Wing Cold Air Intake with a big K&N filter
http://www.airpowersystems.com/wrx/my01/hfa.htm
An ebay cold air feed pipe also bought that will go from fog light cover up into inner wing.
Another map tweek will be required!
I dont think its the fault of the hose entirely as it is a good one :
"Silicone rubber construction with smooth wipe down finish. Temperature range -50C to 220C. Thickness = 5mm with four mesh Polyester or Nomex layers to enable higher pressure than original rubber hose does."
I think these should be used with an Induction kit and not a std airbox. The std airbox being more restrictive than an Induction kit is causing a vacum, pre-turbo, under high boost. This wasnt a problem with the original inlet hose which was hard plastic, smaller in overall size/volume and less free flowing. So with that in mind and a mission for more airflow Iv just bought this off a friend on Scoobynet.
APS 70mm Inner Wing Cold Air Intake with a big K&N filter
http://www.airpowersystems.com/wrx/my01/hfa.htm
An ebay cold air feed pipe also bought that will go from fog light cover up into inner wing.
Another map tweek will be required!
Last edited by rickya; 28 March 2012 at 05:08 PM.
26 March 2012, 01:10 AM
#222
Bodged together a temporary airbox to inlet joiner hose. Not ideal but was able to test it all out. No boost leaks and car didn't blow up which means I put it all back together fine! But over approx 5k revs I am getting the Inlet closing in on itself I think. Could be near the bodged joint as I have not put the metal reinforced ring in there yet?
I dont think its the fault of the hose entirely as it is a good one :
"Silicone rubber construction with smooth wipe down finish. Temperature range -50C to 220C. Thickness = 5mm with four mesh Polyester or Nomex layers to enable higher pressure than original rubber hose does."
I think these should be used with an Induction kit and not a std airbox. The std airbox being more restrictive than an Induction kit is causing a vacum, pre-turbo, under high boost. This wasnt a problem with the original inlet hose which was hard plastic, smaller in overall size/volume and less free flowing. So with that in mind and a mission for more airflow Iv just bought this off a friend on Scoobynet.
APS 70mm Inner Wing Cold Air Intake with a big K&N filter
http://www.airpowersystems.com/wrx/my01/hfa.htm
Another map tweek will be required!
I dont think its the fault of the hose entirely as it is a good one :
"Silicone rubber construction with smooth wipe down finish. Temperature range -50C to 220C. Thickness = 5mm with four mesh Polyester or Nomex layers to enable higher pressure than original rubber hose does."
I think these should be used with an Induction kit and not a std airbox. The std airbox being more restrictive than an Induction kit is causing a vacum, pre-turbo, under high boost. This wasnt a problem with the original inlet hose which was hard plastic, smaller in overall size/volume and less free flowing. So with that in mind and a mission for more airflow Iv just bought this off a friend on Scoobynet.
APS 70mm Inner Wing Cold Air Intake with a big K&N filter
http://www.airpowersystems.com/wrx/my01/hfa.htm
Another map tweek will be required!
Hi Ricky
We are run the cheap silicone inlet pipe for few months without the problem,we are run around 1.5bar without the problem,but with some inlet pipe is problem they will collapse under boost.
Second thought depends on inlet pipe and how many ply have and from this i would go,some have inside wire(Perrin) which helping from collapsing.
This APS is great and probably nicest CAIK,will looks good and will made difference in engine bay
Good work on front end and as i said needs to have look closer and in flesh
Jura
04 April 2012, 01:06 PM
#224
This week finished of:
APS cold air intake 76mm, bigger cut out of engine bay inner wing to accommodate, fit Silicone turbo inlet hose 76mm (inner 70mm), relocate fractionally ABS pump, (preferred doing this than getting an S shaped silicone joiner hose and fit CAIK at an angle to turbo inlet), tidy up 3 port boost solenoid and oil catch can hoses, raised intercooler slightly from back, put the whole blemin thing back together! Engine bay still needs a good clean though
Fitted cold air feed trumpet into fog cover
Cold air feed to K&N Filter in inner wing (not pointing directly at it though for rain)
Matching dummy one for passenger side
Still would like new wheel arch liners, make an air tight surround-cover around gaps where CAIK goes into inner wing, finish making something with the circular disc shape that I cut out of the fog cover
Map tweek booked for April 17th (for above mods and on previous map clutch was shot & not holding boost properly).
APS cold air intake 76mm, bigger cut out of engine bay inner wing to accommodate, fit Silicone turbo inlet hose 76mm (inner 70mm), relocate fractionally ABS pump, (preferred doing this than getting an S shaped silicone joiner hose and fit CAIK at an angle to turbo inlet), tidy up 3 port boost solenoid and oil catch can hoses, raised intercooler slightly from back, put the whole blemin thing back together! Engine bay still needs a good clean though
Fitted cold air feed trumpet into fog cover
Cold air feed to K&N Filter in inner wing (not pointing directly at it though for rain)
Matching dummy one for passenger side
Still would like new wheel arch liners, make an air tight surround-cover around gaps where CAIK goes into inner wing, finish making something with the circular disc shape that I cut out of the fog cover
Map tweek booked for April 17th (for above mods and on previous map clutch was shot & not holding boost properly).
Last edited by rickya; 04 April 2012 at 01:13 PM.
19 April 2012, 05:56 PM
#226
Update:
To many it might seem like Im chasing some figures and hence constantly remapping, tweaking and modding bits and bobs. But in reality I like to get things just perfect and cant leave it knowing there's something not quite right! When I bought this car it was not quite right in many areas and in hindsight it would have been cheaper and easier to have just bought a different car.
But experience in buying cars comes over time and hindsight is what it is! Saying that, what good that has come of this struggle is that I have learnt a lot and am not afraid to get stuck in now and believe it or not I have stopped cross threading.....almost!! lol Apart from major jobs and things that need ramps, Im quite prepared to give it a go and recently fitted brake pads, to turbo inlets, cold air kits, spray painting, fitting ICE, making ECU logs and soon Gauges and Suspension. 
This is really what I wanted and something that I dont think I would have done had it been my mint Spec C.
So I suppose the extra costs involved with this car can be seen as course fees for an all round Basic Car mechanics course!!
I think finally the car is where it should have been at if the previous owner had any sense or knew how to mod and look after such cars. Almost all the bits that he had done have now been completely removed and all problems sorted. Along the way, thought out mods and fixes have been done as this thread describes.
This week it went for (thankfully ) its final map at Surrey Rolling Road courtesy of Charlie and map tweeked by Duncan-Racedynamix. All previous issues now sorted this really had to be it on its current setup, however it behaved on the dyno was how it was going to stay! Im pleased to report it made exactly the same figures as my Spec C after almost exactly same mods:
Approx 340bhp @ 5,600rpm / 365 ft/lbs @ 3,200 rpm, all at just 1.55 bar peak boost. It did make 350bhp at over 1.6bar boost but Duncan kept it at 1.55 peak as not really worth the stress on the turbo for the extra 10bhp.
It holds 1.5 bar from 3,100rpm to 5,000 / 1.4 bar to 6,000rpm / 1.3bar to 7,000rpm.
Which is better than seen on the Spec C and similar spec'd cars. Though this could be to do with better air flow from inlet etc? To drive it has transformed the car from before when it was struggling to hold boost with the shot clutch and damaged turbo intake hose. It now spools up much quicker, has loads more torque, and has a much wider and useable power band. I have'nt been able to fully test it out though due to this god dam rain
Graphs to follow once scanned
To many it might seem like Im chasing some figures and hence constantly remapping, tweaking and modding bits and bobs. But in reality I like to get things just perfect and cant leave it knowing there's something not quite right! When I bought this car it was not quite right in many areas and in hindsight it would have been cheaper and easier to have just bought a different car.
But experience in buying cars comes over time and hindsight is what it is! Saying that, what good that has come of this struggle is that I have learnt a lot and am not afraid to get stuck in now and believe it or not I have stopped cross threading.....almost!! lol
Apart from major jobs and things that need ramps, Im quite prepared to give it a go and recently fitted brake pads, to turbo inlets, cold air kits, spray painting, fitting ICE, making ECU logs and soon Gauges and Suspension. This is really what I wanted and something that I dont think I would have done had it been my mint Spec C.So I suppose the extra costs involved with this car can be seen as course fees for an all round Basic Car mechanics course!!
I think finally the car is where it should have been at if the previous owner had any sense or knew how to mod and look after such cars. Almost all the bits that he had done have now been completely removed and all problems sorted. Along the way, thought out mods and fixes have been done as this thread describes.
This week it went for (thankfully
) its final map at Surrey Rolling Road courtesy of Charlie and map tweeked by Duncan-Racedynamix. All previous issues now sorted this really had to be it on its current setup, however it behaved on the dyno was how it was going to stay! Im pleased to report it made exactly the same figures as my Spec C after almost exactly same mods:Approx 340bhp @ 5,600rpm / 365 ft/lbs @ 3,200 rpm, all at just 1.55 bar peak boost. It did make 350bhp at over 1.6bar boost but Duncan kept it at 1.55 peak as not really worth the stress on the turbo for the extra 10bhp.
It holds 1.5 bar from 3,100rpm to 5,000 / 1.4 bar to 6,000rpm / 1.3bar to 7,000rpm.
Which is better than seen on the Spec C and similar spec'd cars. Though this could be to do with better air flow from inlet etc? To drive it has transformed the car from before when it was struggling to hold boost with the shot clutch and damaged turbo intake hose. It now spools up much quicker, has loads more torque, and has a much wider and useable power band. I have'nt been able to fully test it out though due to this god dam rain
Graphs to follow once scanned
Last edited by rickya; 19 April 2012 at 06:18 PM.
19 April 2012, 10:07 PM
#231
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330 bhp & 350 ft/lbs torque Thanks to Richard @ FB Tuning.
Start of July had a remap from Duncan @ Racedynamix.335bhp & 350 ft/lbs torque at approx 1.5bar on Subaru4You Dyno.
To many it might seem like Im chasing some figures and hence constantly remapping, tweaking and modding bits and bobs. But in reality You are chasing figures
edited for accuracy. 
Approx 340bhp @ 5,600rpm / 365 ft/lbs @ 3,200 rpm, all at just 1.55 bar peak boost. It did make 350bhp at over 1.6bar boost but Duncan kept it at 1.55 peak as not really worth the stress on the turbo for the extra 10bhp.
It holds 1.5 bar from 3,100rpm to 5,000 / 1.4 bar to 6,000rpm / 1.3bar to 7,000rpm.
Ricky bud, i think Budgie has the point. Theres no big difference in a real world . And you just wasted a fair bit of engslish dollars for a bloody 10bhp, 15 ft/lbs going up and down doing every tweak.
Tinking tinking my friend....
Start of July had a remap from Duncan @ Racedynamix.335bhp & 350 ft/lbs torque at approx 1.5bar on Subaru4You Dyno.
To many it might seem like Im chasing some figures and hence constantly remapping, tweaking and modding bits and bobs. But in reality You are chasing figures
edited for accuracy. Approx 340bhp @ 5,600rpm / 365 ft/lbs @ 3,200 rpm, all at just 1.55 bar peak boost. It did make 350bhp at over 1.6bar boost but Duncan kept it at 1.55 peak as not really worth the stress on the turbo for the extra 10bhp.
It holds 1.5 bar from 3,100rpm to 5,000 / 1.4 bar to 6,000rpm / 1.3bar to 7,000rpm.
Ricky bud, i think Budgie has the point. Theres no big difference in a real world . And you just wasted a fair bit of engslish dollars for a bloody 10bhp, 15 ft/lbs going up and down doing every tweak.
Tinking tinking my friend....
19 April 2012, 11:40 PM
#232
It's not to do with power figures or mappers.
If I were to post all dyno plots you would see what I'm referring to. The car had various inherent issues on the first few maps (not the fault of the mappers, but the car itself). These problems ranged from: knackered turbo, blowing up pipe, old plugs, knackered clutch and busted turbo inlet hose! These problems were discovered and rectified on a piecemeal basis unfortunately, hence various maps. What these issues caused was e.g. was not achieving max torque till 4, 600 rpm, not being able to hold 1.5 bar boost, to dropping off too soon, only making 330 ft/lbs torque, making 330bhp by almost having to cheat the ecu by building boost slowly so it won't suddenly drop off etc etc. At one point all these was pointing towards low compression, so really it was a process I had to follow to get to the bottom of it. Thank god I now have!
Ultimately its a twin scroll car and should perform like one that's why I bought it, previously it was performing like a laggy TD0620G!
Id rather not turn this into Fb tuning vs Racedynamix as they are both exceptional mappers, and me switching from on to te other has nothing to do with their work nor me chasing 10bhp and wasting extra £££!
Just drive it and see!
Ps I think Budgie means the amount iv spent on it I should have just kept the SPEC c!!
If I were to post all dyno plots you would see what I'm referring to. The car had various inherent issues on the first few maps (not the fault of the mappers, but the car itself). These problems ranged from: knackered turbo, blowing up pipe, old plugs, knackered clutch and busted turbo inlet hose! These problems were discovered and rectified on a piecemeal basis unfortunately, hence various maps. What these issues caused was e.g. was not achieving max torque till 4, 600 rpm, not being able to hold 1.5 bar boost, to dropping off too soon, only making 330 ft/lbs torque, making 330bhp by almost having to cheat the ecu by building boost slowly so it won't suddenly drop off etc etc. At one point all these was pointing towards low compression, so really it was a process I had to follow to get to the bottom of it. Thank god I now have!
Ultimately its a twin scroll car and should perform like one that's why I bought it, previously it was performing like a laggy TD0620G!
Id rather not turn this into Fb tuning vs Racedynamix as they are both exceptional mappers, and me switching from on to te other has nothing to do with their work nor me chasing 10bhp and wasting extra £££!
Just drive it and see!
Ps I think Budgie means the amount iv spent on it I should have just kept the SPEC c!!
Last edited by rickya; 20 April 2012 at 12:14 AM.
20 April 2012, 12:30 AM
#234
Jura, Suspension wise iv got some Tein monoflex to go on with some apex adj lateral links, uprated rear ARB, and I already have ALK, camber bolts, uprated steering full bush kit.
Not too sure on gauges though I like the neatness and simplicity of the 4 in 1 Deepo gauge and then mount it on centre of steering column?
Not too sure on gauges though I like the neatness and simplicity of the 4 in 1 Deepo gauge and then mount it on centre of steering column?
20 April 2012, 12:41 AM
#235
Jura, Suspension wise iv got some Tein monoflex to go on with some apex adj lateral links, uprated rear ARB, and I already have ALK, camber bolts, uprated steering full bush kit.
Not too sure on gauges though I like the neatness and simplicity of the 4 in 1 Deepo gauge and then mount it on centre of steering column?
Not too sure on gauges though I like the neatness and simplicity of the 4 in 1 Deepo gauge and then mount it on centre of steering column?
ALK not sure,we have fitted and now with different setup front end just lifting under heavy acceleration,not sure why they called ALK i would say is Lift kit not Anti Lift Kit,camber bolts(you are want run some better alloys from courtesy of Mags?)
Gauges Depo 4 in 1 looking like nice buy,i was looking too for one for our Renault Megane,about the pod,not sure but maybe we will be selling our ATi steering column pod
Jura
20 April 2012, 07:30 AM
#236
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It's not to do with power figures or mappers.
If I were to post all dyno plots you would see what I'm referring to. The car had various inherent issues on the first few maps (not the fault of the mappers, but the car itself). These problems ranged from: knackered turbo, blowing up pipe, old plugs, knackered clutch and busted turbo inlet hose! These problems were discovered and rectified on a piecemeal basis unfortunately, hence various maps. What these issues caused was e.g. was not achieving max torque till 4, 600 rpm, not being able to hold 1.5 bar boost, to dropping off too soon, only making 330 ft/lbs torque, making 330bhp by almost having to cheat the ecu by building boost slowly so it won't suddenly drop off etc etc. At one point all these was pointing towards low compression, so really it was a process I had to follow to get to the bottom of it. Thank god I now have!
Ultimately its a twin scroll car and should perform like one that's why I bought it, previously it was performing like a laggy TD0620G!
Id rather not turn this into Fb tuning vs Racedynamix as they are both exceptional mappers, and me switching from on to te other has nothing to do with their work nor me chasing 10bhp and wasting extra £££!
Just drive it and see!
Ps I think Budgie means the amount iv spent on it I should have just kept the SPEC c!!
If I were to post all dyno plots you would see what I'm referring to. The car had various inherent issues on the first few maps (not the fault of the mappers, but the car itself). These problems ranged from: knackered turbo, blowing up pipe, old plugs, knackered clutch and busted turbo inlet hose! These problems were discovered and rectified on a piecemeal basis unfortunately, hence various maps. What these issues caused was e.g. was not achieving max torque till 4, 600 rpm, not being able to hold 1.5 bar boost, to dropping off too soon, only making 330 ft/lbs torque, making 330bhp by almost having to cheat the ecu by building boost slowly so it won't suddenly drop off etc etc. At one point all these was pointing towards low compression, so really it was a process I had to follow to get to the bottom of it. Thank god I now have!
Ultimately its a twin scroll car and should perform like one that's why I bought it, previously it was performing like a laggy TD0620G!
Id rather not turn this into Fb tuning vs Racedynamix as they are both exceptional mappers, and me switching from on to te other has nothing to do with their work nor me chasing 10bhp and wasting extra £££!
Just drive it and see!
Ps I think Budgie means the amount iv spent on it I should have just kept the SPEC c!!
Well, i'm the same, but as we spoke before i came to the conclusion , that there is always going to be something you could improve? But do you realy need that? I need to test drive it before i speak TBH, so i'll just shut up for now. 
