"Back to the future," in a JDM STI Ver-9 Widetrack
#94
Would love to if I owned a pick up truck!! lol
Just bought this instead, another Stebel, not the Brio BP3 this time but the Nautilus Compact instead. (a bit less fun & less camp! ) Talking of camp,...John I might need a hand wiring it!!!! lol
http://www.stebel.it/stebel2009/prod...CTROPNEUMATICS
Just bought this instead, another Stebel, not the Brio BP3 this time but the Nautilus Compact instead. (a bit less fun & less camp! ) Talking of camp,...John I might need a hand wiring it!!!! lol
http://www.stebel.it/stebel2009/prod...CTROPNEUMATICS
Last edited by rickya; 04 April 2011 at 08:41 PM.
#95
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I wish I'd have thought to remove the horn on the pace car before it was made into cans of fizzy pop- it was a real granny scarer and really small...
#96
Detango with a difference Update:
Thanks to Uncle Guv for his help with this job that took us through the bank holiday weekend with a few drinks & mini barb-q & a lot of pissing about!!
The JDM lights already seemed to be de-tango'd from the factory but I wanted to do the NASIOC style blackout of the inner chrome surround. Also to give the glass lens covers a good clean from the inside. They are misted over some what & unfortunately still are, will try mopping them with Platstic X compund with Darm's help in the future.
But as you may already know I have to do things a bit different & so have invented the "RickyHawk Blob", soon to catch on & be the latest craze to sweep NASIOC & IWTSI!!!! lol See below:
Std light (though misted glass )
Uncle Guv at work!
Outer cover done, but first masking off the chrome surround to give it that Hawkeye projector look
Inner light section was masked off at an angle upwards & a small area painted black to try & enhance that RickHawk look!
All put back together (apologies for some poor phone camera images)
Still not finished though as I have an idea for the outer glass cover too
Thanks to Uncle Guv for his help with this job that took us through the bank holiday weekend with a few drinks & mini barb-q & a lot of pissing about!!
The JDM lights already seemed to be de-tango'd from the factory but I wanted to do the NASIOC style blackout of the inner chrome surround. Also to give the glass lens covers a good clean from the inside. They are misted over some what & unfortunately still are, will try mopping them with Platstic X compund with Darm's help in the future.
But as you may already know I have to do things a bit different & so have invented the "RickyHawk Blob", soon to catch on & be the latest craze to sweep NASIOC & IWTSI!!!! lol See below:
Std light (though misted glass )
Uncle Guv at work!
Outer cover done, but first masking off the chrome surround to give it that Hawkeye projector look
Inner light section was masked off at an angle upwards & a small area painted black to try & enhance that RickHawk look!
All put back together (apologies for some poor phone camera images)
Still not finished though as I have an idea for the outer glass cover too
Last edited by rickya; 05 May 2011 at 07:06 PM.
#100
I just knew you were gona come on & say that!!! lololol Its the Hawkeye on a Blobeye budget!!!
As Confucious said (I think, or else I just made it up, sounds Chinesey anyway!), "Sometimes you have to go backwards to move forward"
As Confucious said (I think, or else I just made it up, sounds Chinesey anyway!), "Sometimes you have to go backwards to move forward"
Last edited by rickya; 05 May 2011 at 07:19 PM.
#101
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#108
Update Remap prep work: More great work by Rich @ FB Tuning
Once again some great care & attention to detail from Rich who worked on my car with the same ethos & effort as if it were his own. Not like most other garages & tuners out there without a doubt. Give him a try & make your own mind up, though believe me I'm quite finicky & do a lot of research before I do anything on my car!
Before remap (next week hopefully) I wanted to:
- Sort out the exhaust system once & for all
- Drop in a Cosworth Panel Filter
- Refit/Re-locate properly & setup up Sard fuel pressure regulator (to be done on remap day)
-Take out Greddy ProfecB II Boost Controller & fit Prodrive 3 port boost solenoid (to be done on remap day)
So yesterday we worked on the exhaust system & ended up with a custom exhaust made up to my specifications, which I wanted to do after much research/experience with sound/power characteristics. I got to this after going through the following:
On my Ver10 Spec C:
-Std 2.5" Sti system
-Std Sti system mated to Blitz Nur Spec S 2.5" back box
-H&S Jap exit full 3" system with extra resonated centre section
-H&S bellmouth decat 3" downpipe from above system mated to 3" Miltek backbox
-(Miltek hi flow cat mid section fitted & removed immediately)
Then on Type R:
-Std Sti 2.5" System
-H&S decat bellmouth 2.5 " mated to Fujitsubo Giken Japexit mid section / backbox
Then on Ver9 JDM STI
-3" unkown full decat straight through drainpipe of an exhaust system
-3" decat bellmouth downpipe from above system temporarily modified to 2" / 2.5" mated to 2.5" Fujitsubo Giken mid & backbox
Getting through that lot in a couple of years I think I managed to narrow down what I actually wanted!!
So what I now have is all custom length: twinscroll decat bellmouth 3.5"" tapering down to 3" to join to a full 3" Fujitsibo Giken system with one resonator out of two removed. Rich had to Mig-weld the two flange joints onto the end of the downpipe (as my flanges were not stainless steel) The remaining system Tig-welded a new 3" stainless steel section with curved sections welded in to replace one resonator & taking out the 2.5" existing taper. But all these new tig-welded, curved sections also allowed us to keep the Jap exit straight design while pulling it all up towards the underside of the car which improves the "hang-low" Jap design. Once finished the system now sits so flush & solid with excellent flowing design without hardly any bends, a pity I did'nt get a pic of it once fitted under the car. (pic will come next time its on the ramps). The sound is exactly what I wanted, quiet on idle, no drone at all & not loud below approx 3,500 revs, but above this it builds up into a raspy howl that eventually flattens out into a menacingly fearsome tone!!! Love it!!!
Once again some great care & attention to detail from Rich who worked on my car with the same ethos & effort as if it were his own. Not like most other garages & tuners out there without a doubt. Give him a try & make your own mind up, though believe me I'm quite finicky & do a lot of research before I do anything on my car!
Before remap (next week hopefully) I wanted to:
- Sort out the exhaust system once & for all
- Drop in a Cosworth Panel Filter
- Refit/Re-locate properly & setup up Sard fuel pressure regulator (to be done on remap day)
-Take out Greddy ProfecB II Boost Controller & fit Prodrive 3 port boost solenoid (to be done on remap day)
So yesterday we worked on the exhaust system & ended up with a custom exhaust made up to my specifications, which I wanted to do after much research/experience with sound/power characteristics. I got to this after going through the following:
On my Ver10 Spec C:
-Std 2.5" Sti system
-Std Sti system mated to Blitz Nur Spec S 2.5" back box
-H&S Jap exit full 3" system with extra resonated centre section
-H&S bellmouth decat 3" downpipe from above system mated to 3" Miltek backbox
-(Miltek hi flow cat mid section fitted & removed immediately)
Then on Type R:
-Std Sti 2.5" System
-H&S decat bellmouth 2.5 " mated to Fujitsubo Giken Japexit mid section / backbox
Then on Ver9 JDM STI
-3" unkown full decat straight through drainpipe of an exhaust system
-3" decat bellmouth downpipe from above system temporarily modified to 2" / 2.5" mated to 2.5" Fujitsubo Giken mid & backbox
Getting through that lot in a couple of years I think I managed to narrow down what I actually wanted!!
So what I now have is all custom length: twinscroll decat bellmouth 3.5"" tapering down to 3" to join to a full 3" Fujitsibo Giken system with one resonator out of two removed. Rich had to Mig-weld the two flange joints onto the end of the downpipe (as my flanges were not stainless steel) The remaining system Tig-welded a new 3" stainless steel section with curved sections welded in to replace one resonator & taking out the 2.5" existing taper. But all these new tig-welded, curved sections also allowed us to keep the Jap exit straight design while pulling it all up towards the underside of the car which improves the "hang-low" Jap design. Once finished the system now sits so flush & solid with excellent flowing design without hardly any bends, a pity I did'nt get a pic of it once fitted under the car. (pic will come next time its on the ramps). The sound is exactly what I wanted, quiet on idle, no drone at all & not loud below approx 3,500 revs, but above this it builds up into a raspy howl that eventually flattens out into a menacingly fearsome tone!!! Love it!!!
Last edited by rickya; 08 May 2011 at 01:29 PM.
#109
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I seems like you have what I now want out of a system although I'm afraid that I'd miss the growl of the blitz too much -I never tire of it but I know some think it's just too hooligan, especially with the DV and wastegate noises
#110
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Nothing wrong with DV and Growl noise as far as I am concerned
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#119
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#120
Update:
Was at Richard's (Fb Tuning) 2 weeks ago for a few more mods & to start mapping it
Mapping will hopefully be finished this Thursday (along with a few other bits), as the unknown brand actuator on the turbo at the moment was a bit rubbish
Fitted:
Cosworth Panel Filter
Prodrive 3 port boost solenoid
Re-fitted Sard Fuel Pressure regulator & hoses
And set up correctly so that the Walbro 255p/l fuel pump & Sard FPR is now working correctly at 3bar pressure, not at >4 bar as set before by previous owner!
Was at Richard's (Fb Tuning) 2 weeks ago for a few more mods & to start mapping it
Mapping will hopefully be finished this Thursday (along with a few other bits), as the unknown brand actuator on the turbo at the moment was a bit rubbish
Fitted:
Cosworth Panel Filter
Prodrive 3 port boost solenoid
Re-fitted Sard Fuel Pressure regulator & hoses
And set up correctly so that the Walbro 255p/l fuel pump & Sard FPR is now working correctly at 3bar pressure, not at >4 bar as set before by previous owner!
Last edited by rickya; 28 May 2011 at 04:44 PM.