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Old 14 February 2016, 09:46 AM
  #1741  
raly-pete
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Just an enquiry? Anyone have a knocklink fitted to they're hatch? I've just fitted one to mine,and straight away at heavy throttle ( 4k foot to floor) knocklink suddenly jumps to red!!! I probably haven't got Ringland failure yet as it drives fine doesn't use oil..and everything checks ok...but???... If I keep driving it with this very likely lean det! It's only a matter of time... Time for a remap me thinks.
Old 14 February 2016, 09:52 AM
  #1742  
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Originally Posted by raly-pete
Just an enquiry? Anyone have a knocklink fitted to they're hatch? I've just fitted one to mine,and straight away at heavy throttle ( 4k foot to floor) knocklink suddenly jumps to red!!! I probably haven't got Ringland failure yet as it drives fine doesn't use oil..and everything checks ok...but???... If I keep driving it with this very likely lean det! It's only a matter of time... Time for a remap me thinks.
Time for an AFR
Old 14 February 2016, 11:37 AM
  #1743  
T5NYW
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As above ir

Time for decent fuel or good map
Old 14 February 2016, 12:04 PM
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raly-pete
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Cheers guys,never use anything other than vpower.. So definitely not booting it now till remap..just wondered if anyone else had a knocklink on standard?.. If this is the way our hatches are running? No wonder they crack pistons!
Old 14 February 2016, 12:12 PM
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Just make sure no brackets or heat shield are loose nearby the accelerometer
Old 14 February 2016, 01:07 PM
  #1746  
raly-pete
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Originally Posted by T5NYW
Just make sure no brackets or heat shield are loose nearby the accelerometer
Thanks mate will check.just the revs and power do kinda indicate to me when I'd expect knock to occur...Hope your right though :-)
Old 28 February 2016, 10:06 PM
  #1747  
walsh128
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Get your tank dipped and the petrol tested. There was a guy on here a few years ago who blew his motor big style and as he was in the trade he had the petrol tested. turns out his local shell garage was putting ordinary through the V power pumps. I only ever put supermarket super in mine.
Old 01 March 2016, 09:59 PM
  #1748  
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Originally Posted by walsh128
Get your tank dipped and the petrol tested. There was a guy on here a few years ago who blew his motor big style and as he was in the trade he had the petrol tested. turns out his local shell garage was putting ordinary through the V power pumps. I only ever put supermarket super in mine.
More common than you'd think. Robbing bar stewards.

Tony
Old 02 March 2016, 06:42 PM
  #1749  
IggyRB320
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Shame there's not a quick test, say like a litmus paper/strip to test the real octane value!!
Old 01 June 2016, 07:42 AM
  #1750  
Dave T-S
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Well, I cured the problem.......I sold it .

My Focus RS is about to be built, my local dealer offered me a silly cash price for the STi, so it's gone.

Currently smoking around in a Renault Sport Clio 182 that was as cheap as chips - only paid £1k for it, will do me for a daily station car until the RS arrives.

I test drove a Focus RS last weekend, it is awesome, and leaves the STi for dead handling wise. Right choice
Old 01 June 2016, 12:29 PM
  #1751  
Guesty
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What was the daft cash price
Old 09 June 2016, 09:52 AM
  #1752  
paulhchawner
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Default 330s best engine rebuild

Advice on who to use and costs for 330s Engine rebuild.
Got in yesterday and heard a strange rattle as throttle is blipped.
Does not persist as revved but does sound ominous so being pessimistic will probably need to be thinking of rebuild.Going to have a proper look and listen today.
Who to use if needs a major overall. Not interested in boosting power as such as trying to keep as standard as possible.
Only done 40K as well and i don't exactly paste it.
56 now and arsehole is not as strong as it was
Thanks in advance
Old 09 June 2016, 10:23 AM
  #1753  
salsa-king
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Originally Posted by paulhchawner
Advice on who to use and costs for 330s Engine rebuild.
Got in yesterday and heard a strange rattle as throttle is blipped.
Does not persist as revved but does sound ominous so being pessimistic will probably need to be thinking of rebuild.Going to have a proper look and listen today.
Who to use if needs a major overall. Not interested in boosting power as such as trying to keep as standard as possible.
Only done 40K as well and i don't exactly paste it.
56 now and arsehole is not as strong as it was
Thanks in advance
Ring either of below

Engine Tuner
SCOOBYCLINC
Area52

Etc etc
Old 09 June 2016, 01:34 PM
  #1754  
selhurstscooby
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Originally Posted by paulhchawner
Advice on who to use and costs for 330s Engine rebuild.
Got in yesterday and heard a strange rattle as throttle is blipped.
Does not persist as revved but does sound ominous so being pessimistic will probably need to be thinking of rebuild.Going to have a proper look and listen today.
Who to use if needs a major overall. Not interested in boosting power as such as trying to keep as standard as possible.
Only done 40K as well and i don't exactly paste it.
56 now and arsehole is not as strong as it was
Thanks in advance
Finch Motorsport in Northamptonshire may not be to far away from you and have a good reputation, not used them myself though!

www.finchmotorsport.co.uk/
Old 30 June 2016, 01:58 PM
  #1755  
Dave T-S
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Originally Posted by Guesty
What was the daft cash price
2013 (13) plate

35,000 miles

Warranty just expired

MOT required

Got £14,500 for it.
Old 25 July 2016, 03:32 PM
  #1756  
dskmanch
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Angry another failure here

Sorry for the first post being a rant (long time lurker), but after years of wanting one, I finally got an 09 plate 330s and have had the dreaded engine problems.

Bought from a dealer in Dec 14 - lovely looking car etc. did 7 months and about 2.5k miles and then got blue smoke on startup. 1/12 out of warrenty (crap)

so i took it to a specialist in stockport, after recommendations from people on PH. Was that ever a mistake. Took me 9 months to get my car back - that's another story in itself. But got the forged internals, uprated bearings, studs, gaskets etc and thought, oh well, it cost some money, but it's a great car, it'll be stronger than ever now and do me many years.

ran it in gently for 1200 miles, as advised, changed the oil etc and only 2 months and 2k miles, the head gasket went. by now Pete has sold his business and really, after the crap i went through trying to get it back in the first place (you would't believe the excuses, delays) i took it to a place in blackburn. they thought 3 of the studs hadn't been put in right / tightened correctly, as they seemed loose. other signs of poor workmanship, like brackets loose and the pipe for the turbo half folded in on itself. but when they removed the studs, the threads came right out of the block with 2 of them, so they think they were cross threaded when put in. so i need a new block.

i contacted pete, who said he'd only said he built the short engine personally and he doesn't lie. he slated the place in blackburn, but when i said - before he starts telling me what they've done wrong, could he explain to me how, if the work he/his team had done was good, how come the headgasket failed so soon after the rebuild. the head wasn't warped or cracked. he's not been in touch since.

he told me when i first went there and said he'd been recommended, that you were only as good as your last engine - that's very true.
Old 25 July 2016, 06:22 PM
  #1757  
dskmanch
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Another failure here unfortunately.

Bought an 09 plate 330s in Dec '14. 70k miles - and 7 months and 2.5k miles later it started smoking on startup. A cracked ringland was found.

Had the engine rebuilt with forged internals and uprated bearings, head studs, oil pump, gaskets etc, plus a new clutch.

Figured it was one of those things - but it seems the work done was not very good.

I ran it in again gently, for 1200 miles, the changed the oil etc. All fine for another 800 or so miles and then it blew the top off the coolant reservoir under boost. Had to take it to someone else, as the original guy has now sold up and is ignoring communication.

New place found head studs seemed all different heights and 3 were loose. I thought at least the heads weren't warped or cracked. But the threads pulled right out of the block with a couple of the studs when they were removed.

Gutted doesn't come close.
Old 27 July 2016, 06:59 AM
  #1758  
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Originally Posted by dskmanch
Another failure here unfortunately.

Bought an 09 plate 330s in Dec '14. 70k miles - and 7 months and 2.5k miles later it started smoking on startup. A cracked ringland was found.

Had the engine rebuilt with forged internals and uprated bearings, head studs, oil pump, gaskets etc, plus a new clutch.

Figured it was one of those things - but it seems the work done was not very good.

I ran it in again gently, for 1200 miles, the changed the oil etc. All fine for another 800 or so miles and then it blew the top off the coolant reservoir under boost. Had to take it to someone else, as the original guy has now sold up and is ignoring communication.

New place found head studs seemed all different heights and 3 were loose. I thought at least the heads weren't warped or cracked. But the threads pulled right out of the block with a couple of the studs when they were removed.

Gutted doesn't come close.

all bad luck

how many owners had the car had before you bought it at 70k miles?
I'm surprised your 330s had issues as it should have had the map refresh years ago. But saying that you never know how the car's been driven or looked after before you bought it.

who did the initial build - now they've closed up you can tell us where they recommended to you?
Old 27 July 2016, 09:33 AM
  #1759  
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Finch
WMS
Engine Tuner


These would be my choices. Although there are plenty of other good builders who can build GOOD 2.5 engines too.
Old 05 August 2016, 11:52 PM
  #1760  
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Just had a rebuild (by Finch Motorsport) on my 2008 hatch STI due to failed No4 piston ringland which was quite advance (broken ring). Also, head gasket was failing and big end bearings showed quite bad wear for the mileage. Car has been very well looked after from new and only covered just over 42000 miles with FSH. Started using oil and leaking coolant on boost over recent months. Tickover was a bit uneven plus there was a bit of hesitation at lower revs. Had a compression test 8 months ago and showed piston No4 at 135 compared to No1 at 150, No2 at 145 and No3 at 142.
Old 11 August 2016, 11:04 AM
  #1761  
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Hi guys, I'm thinking about getting a 2008 - 2010 sit or 330s hatchback but can't afford huge repair costs any advice on the model 2 go for or where best 2 get one? I'm new 2 subaru but love the look of these as a family car.

Thanks for any advice, Karl.
Old 11 August 2016, 11:27 AM
  #1762  
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Originally Posted by Imotepify
Hi guys, I'm thinking about getting a 2008 - 2010 sit or 330s hatchback but can't afford huge repair costs any advice on the model 2 go for or where best 2 get one? I'm new 2 subaru but love the look of these as a family car.

Thanks for any advice, Karl.
I'd start by looking for one that's already had a forged build by a reputable builder. If you find one you like, post a link in a new thread for people's opinions and we can tell you if it looks like a good car or not, or over priced. There are some good cars out there still.


Alternatively, keep £3.5k to one side for a forged build just in case and buy a car and enjoy it until it goes pop! I drove a 2.5 Impreza for 10 years tuned on the standard engine with no issues at all and no engine going pop. I'm now driving a 2.5 forester and taking my chances again!
Old 11 August 2016, 12:44 PM
  #1763  
salsa-king
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I think the trouble is ppl are buying forge cars and don't know who ir how it's been built. Then still have problems as it's been done on the cheap and head gasgets go etc etc.


You can still find cars with no problems.

Id be more inclined to buy a good in forces then when you need to have it done properly yourself knowing it's done right.
Budget 5k though to cover yourself.


Btw... a forester is a better family car.

I've both.
Old 11 August 2016, 04:10 PM
  #1764  
Imotepify
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We are not in a position 2 budget 5k on a rebuild, we would be getting a loan for the car in the first place lol and I'm not sure the Forester would fit in our garage
Old 11 August 2016, 04:26 PM
  #1765  
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The Forester and the Impreza share a lot of components in the drive chain and I believe the floorpan is also the same. I'd be surprised if they were different lengths.


I think you need to ask yourself, if you are stretching yourself too far to buy a hatch and not leaving enough money to factor in for known faults and servicing/running costs are you looking at the right car?


Maybe aim at a lower model car like the blobeye STI which has a bullet-proof 2.0 engine. Or a JDM 2.0L STI of some sort?
Old 11 August 2016, 04:38 PM
  #1766  
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You need to ring a few places to gauge an idea on build costs.

I saw some cars up at Scooby Clinic forsale I know they all have three months warranty.
No harm in ringing Kev to see what he's got in.


You'd pick a nice 54plate Forester STi for about 9k.
BrownPants has a nice looking one.
About 280bhp standard and a bit of a wolf in sheep's clothing IMO
Old 11 August 2016, 04:41 PM
  #1767  
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Originally Posted by salsa-king
I saw some cars up at Scooby Clinic forsale I know they all have three months warranty.
Just remember to check the shocks!
Old 11 August 2016, 05:14 PM
  #1768  
salsa-king
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Originally Posted by BrownPantsRacing
Just remember to check the shocks!

LoL
I took the Truck up there to have the Waxoyl done on the underside and wheel arches the other week and picked it up last Saturday.
Some nice cars up there.
Old 11 August 2016, 05:48 PM
  #1769  
Imotepify
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Seems most cars these days have some bad faults we have an Audi DTM at the moment so a hatch would be loads more practical over the saloon. Maybe the jdm would be the way 2 go. Have you seen any good ones for sale?
Old 12 August 2016, 07:02 AM
  #1770  
salsa-king
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bit of a wild card... fancy something rare?
http://www.scoobyclinic.com/carsales_fc02.htm


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