wrx84

Yep, thats the plan.

Main reason for installing a boost gauge was to see whether it would confirm what my ears are hearing - a possible boost leak

More prominent at higher speeds, so lets say in 5th

Driving about 70, as i the turbo begins (2500 - 3000 rpm) to come in i can hear what seems to be a whistling noise.

Will report back what the guage shows after a sprited drive

btw...its a 54 plate wrx ppp

DonNedly

iTrader: (10)

Turbos are supposed to whistle. Since i went fullty decat mine whistles like an overexcited bird.

lloyd6240

WOW, what a read on my day off. i am really thinking of fitting my own now as i am ordering all my gauges and pod very soon.

mike_on_the_mike

I've got the same fitting kit for the oil pressure sensor and just wanted to ask.. When I try screwing either the gauge sensor or oem sensor in to their respective holes, they don't seem to get in very far before going tight, like only 1/3 of what I would expect.. This guide says they're tapered, and it does feel more like that than the wrong thread but just wanted to check how tough I should be with the spanner or if this indicates that the fitting is wrong? It's a "Subaru specific kit"..

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

They ARE tapered, so don't force them. Screw in hand tight, then half a turn or so. You can use PTFE tape too.

DonNedly

iTrader: (10)

As above. Then look out for leaks. if u find any use ptfe tape.

scoobyc

iTrader: (2)

Nice to see this thread still being used 3 years on! Feels like yesterday i freezing my ***** off fitting these!

ace1981

Just purchased the LCD versions of these gauges, will be having a go at the installation myself over the winter purely on the strength of this thread. Seems a straightforward enough process, it's just tight access and fiddly bits under the bonnet to contend with.

Will let you know how it goes i.e how quickly the swear box is filled.

craigybaby

iTrader: (8)

used this guide for fitting my guages really helpful

ace1981

Stupid question: do you NEED to have the oil pressure and temperature gauge fitting kit if you are not going with the sandwich plate?

I bought my Prosport gauges from Rspec www.rspec.co.uk and they explained that the gauges would come with everything required to install using the non-sandwich plate method.

alessio

iTrader: (3)

Afraid so - you could hook up the oil pressure gauge without the fitting kit if you decided to get rid of the factory warning light but there's nowhere for you to install the oil temperature sensor. You need to replace a plug above the no.3 cylinder with an adapter for the oil temperature sensor.

Rspec do offer that fitting kit, I got one from them together with the gauges and it works fine.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

It also depends on the senders: my Defi OP sender went straight in place of the OE warning light switch.
The OT sender needed an £8 adaptor.

Most OP senders are much fatter and need the adaptor for there too.

ace1981

Thanks for info - I wish I'd thought to check that for myself when I bought the gauges last month. I've ordered the fitting kit, but it won't be despatched until 2 Jan - bit of a nuisance but my own fault really.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Going to rain until then, so no worries......LOL

ace1981

Plenty of time to get this guide printed along with colour copies of all the photos then...

ace1981

I am now ready to have a go at this guide, so it is time for a second stupid question: how have others fixed up all the electrical connections for their gauges? The OP describes how he tested the wiring loom from the stereo but after the boost gauge fitting section, it is not clear how the oil gauges were wired up. Surely cutting the required wire three times and inserting three choc blocks (one for each gauge) isn't the way to do it?

If anyone has their Prosports installed with different illumination colour for day and night, and has step by step photos of the wiring process, that would be ideal.

alessio

iTrader: (3)

OK, I fitted my Prosport gauges to my classic a few months ago so will try to remember what I did. There will be no pictures, though.

I assume you have a tester? I wouldn't start this job without one.

Which Prosport gauges did you go for? Can they be "daisy-chained"? If they can then all you need is power supply to one of the gauges and you can connect the rest of the gauges in series to the first one.

IIRC you need four wires hooked up - battery +, ACC (ignition) +, ground and power to the day/light illumination wire. By the way, on my "halo" series gauges you cannot have different colours for day/night modes, just different brightness levels.

Anyway, arm yourself with the tester and you should be fine. I've found all the necessary wires to splice into in the area of the centre of the dash and here are some pointers.

"Battery +" was easy - I just found a wire in one of the connectors that was always live, I belive it was in the stereo connector.

"ACC +" was the trickiest one. Most of the ones you'll find will not be live when the key is turned into the start position so if, like me, you don't want to see the openning ceremony twice when you start your car, look for the one that is always on, even with the starter on. I've managed to find one in the rear window defroster button connector. Be careful, though, as there are two of those there but one is NOT live when the defroster is on. I belive the correct one is the thicker wire, possibly green in colour. I've made another mistake here - though I'd found a nice ACC+ only to find out that it is not live when the heater fan is on... So in the end I went for the rear defroster button.

Ground - easy, I think I spliced into the stereo connector.

Day/Night switching - I wired mine up to the famous "bright" button. Over here we drive with the headlights on at all times so the "bright" button was the best solution I could find. I actually quite like this, to be honest. If you want yours to dim when you turn the headlights (or rather side lights) on you should just splice into one of the wires for the backlighting of the cetral dash console.

ace1981

I've got the Prosport EVO LCD gauges that do have the day/night illumination option, however each gauge has a brightness control located on the back (which would be concealed once the gauges are mounted in a centre dash pod. There is no mention in the instructions of the possibility to daisy chain.

From what you're saying, there should be enough wires that can be accessed from the centre of the dash to wire the gauges in correctly: just use a multimeter, check every wire.

alessio

iTrader: (3)

Unfortunately I'm not familiar with these series of gauges so you'll have to rely on the installation manual. I certainly would not splice into factory wires three times and if every gauge needs to be powered independently then I'd use some sort of terminal block to keep everything tidy and easy to modify / expand in the future.

I actually had to disassemle some of the dash today so had a chance to take some picutes of my install. You'll notice that I soldered all of the splices I've made and while it's not as tidy as I'd have liked, it shouldn't be too bad.

The wire I'm holding in my hand is the one for the power supply of the gauges. The red piece of electrical tape is where the wires go to different locations from



Here is where I got my battery + from (audio connector)



Here's my ground (it's actually in the cigarette lighter circuit)



Here's the splice in the "bright" button wiring for the day/night mode control



Here's the connector for the rear window defroster button with the splice for the ACC +. Be warned that there is seriously no room there at all, I've had to extend the factory wire to be able to splice into it. Especially fustrating that I had to do this twice (see previous post). If you go for that one, make sure you check that the wire is live with the defroster both on and off. I belive the blue (not green) one is correct but do check.



Here's the back of the gauges to illustrate the daisy chain connection - it is probably not applicable for your model though.



And a pic of an (almost) finished article



Cheers,
Alex

ace1981

That's comprehensive enough - thanks for taking the time to do this, Alex.

scoobyc

iTrader: (2)

pictures fixed. hopefully permanently.

K3ogh_sti

can the pictures on the first page be fixed? its a shame as its a good thread

Brodziu

Hi, I know it may be hard to tell, but do you guys think I'll need adapter for oil temp sensor? ( left in the picture)
I'm also about to order this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUBARU-IMP.../401019959845?
to fit oil press sensor with OEM press sensor.
these sensors are from ShadowPro gauges

HoodedLime

iTrader: (2)

Why not buy that kit http://scoobyworld.co.uk/catalog/pro...oducts_id=1591 ? That one from ebay seems to be the T-piece only. I understand its cheaper but Scoobyworld one contain all you need and fitting guide as well. You get temp sensor adapter with it so you could try to screw your sensor in it. If it would then you'd be sure it'd fit the engine...

Brodziu

We'll see when it arrive as I bought it already if it won't fit I can always send it back, fingers crossed it will be fine.

HoodedLime

iTrader: (2)

I have fitted mine today and used the Scoobyworld kit. All fitted perfectly. If you gonna fit your temp sensor in a bung on 3rd cyl you will need an adapter as the hole is much bigger than the sensor.

Brodziu

I also ordered oil temp sender adapter
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1314651600...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
So I hope this both bits will fit and I can have my gauges working, if not I'll have to wait few more days for scoobyworld kit

bro82

iTrader: (1)

Hi guys, I've got just water temp gauge left to fit as oil press and temp thanks to this guide has been already fitted, my question is do I need to drain whole cooling system to fit adapter into the top radiator hose or just need to take off the hose from radiator let it spill and then just refill the system? Do I need to also bleed to cooling system after that? Thanks

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

You CANNOT bleed the Scoob cooling system, but the answer to your question is almost the same as your second method above.

If I were doing this, I'd do the same as I did when I did mine: drain out a little from the lower hose, catch and keep unless the coolant is very dirty.......in which case, drain it all and replace.

Remove and cut top hose. Look carefully at the inside, flexing it as you do. I didn't do this step, and mine pinholed within days. when I removed it and looked carefully, the inside walls of the hose looked like someone had slashed them with a razor blade. If they look like that, use a new hose.

Refit hose.

Refilling.

Pull off the rearmost hose from it's connection to the metal header tank on top of the engine, and stuff a funnel in the end of the hose. Remove header tank cap. Fill SLOWLY, from a jug, etc, down the funnel, try not to let it gulp. Once the header tank fills, remove funnel, replace hose and, with header tank cap still off, start engine.
Allow to run until the fans kick in, watch for bubbles, mop up or top up as necessary.
Replace header tank cap, drive round block, leave to cool.
Once cool, remove cap again, check level and adjust. Job's a good'un, and fills from the bottom, so avoids airlocking.

HTH

Samwise

Sorry to revive a bit of an old/dead thread but I had a quick question regarding gauge fitting and felt it would be best to keep it here rather than open a new thread.

Recently got a couple of Defi gauges with the controller and a third stand-alone oil temp gauge and i was just wondering whether there is any reason you couldn't run both the Oil temp and pressure sensors off the T-piece fitting kit with this plumbed in to either the plug behind the alternator or the one on cyl 3?