FMJ

iTrader: (2)

Cheers for all the comments. Birchy yeah I have neoprene covers for them I just haven't put them on yet. I thought the threads would corrode as soon as salt touched them. I have also soaked them in motorbike dry chain lube

FMJ

iTrader: (2)

A little update for tonight.

Having had a 4.5 inch after burner on my old scoob for 10 years I wanted something a little more WRC looking for this project. Trying to find a smallish rolled in exit back box second hand or cheap was impossible and I didn't want to spend loads so I got a second hand Magnex oval exit pipe on ebay for £30, cut the tip off and ground it down. Then had a new tip welded on.






Strange part to fit at this stage but it's one less car part in my house!

FMJ

iTrader: (2)

Photobucket is going quickly tonight so I did these before it slowed down again.

Rear trailing arms powder coated, new bushes, new bolts.




Rear lateral link arms the same:





Rear struts and hubs/carriers ready to go:

FMJ

iTrader: (2)

Trailing arms on




Struts on





First I tried to hold the strut in place with one hand and then do the nuts up on top with the other. But getting the three studs through the chassis holes, rear strut brace holes and roll cage holes was impossible... So I removed the top of the struts. Held in in place with my fingers through the central hole while I did the nuts up and then added the strut afterwards which was far far easier to do.

Rear shafts. One took quite a whack to get into place past it's circlip in the diff.




Lateral link arms on




Hub and carrier on



Handbrake parts sent away to be plated and then ready to fit

JonsGreenGoblin

this is an amazing project thread.. well done

JonsGreenGoblin

done anymore?? keeping us in suspense :-)

FMJ

iTrader: (2)

Still here

I found a couple of pics of the pedals I missed originally before I fitted them




Seats picked up from ebay for cheaps. Pretty budget option but I don't have an endless supply of money for this sadly. I have two and will fit the other later. Before fitting them I cleaned them and gave them a coat of waterproofing spray to try and make them more resistant to mould and dirt (all metal interiors tend to get a bit damp with condensation).



Custom rail made from original rails. The complete seats and rails were quite a few kg's lighter then the originals.



Interior so far. Safety devices half cage bolted in but not tightened up yet.

CDF short shifter.



OMP steering wheel.



Pedals.








Back outside and yes I am going to fit a "roof turd" (slang for a stuck on roof scoop for those not in know). But mine is going to function as I can't just have a non functioning stick on one. To make it work I could either pay £100's for a well overpriced original. Or I can knock one up myself. As looks on the inside don't matter and you won't see the outside when the scoops on I made my own for about £20.





New handbrake cables (I have two).



Back to the rear hubs and we have the handbrake mech on. Not complete yet as the struts are not bolted on but almost....





This is how far we are at the mo. Space savers on the fronts as I need to move the car about with dry steering a little and it will be a lot easier on skinny tyres.

gary77

iTrader: (1)

Coming together great . I was looking at the price of new hanbrake parts .what sort of cost is the zinc coating

FMJ

iTrader: (2)

I would just plate unless they are really rotted away mate. Maybe new springs but the rest is solid and once it's cleaned and plated will be good as new. If the parts were cheap it would be worth getting new ones, but you will pay at least twice the price for new parts. I have no idea how much to plate as I did it all together but I would guess maybe £20? I used a place called derby plating that do mail order and a quick service with quality results.

gary77

iTrader: (1)

That does sound like the way to go . A full rear handbrake kit costs about £120 I think that's for both sides but I'd have to check . £20 sounds much better

FMJ

iTrader: (2)

I try to replace anything that needs it but to be honest most rusty metal can be restored as long as it's not so thin the part is rusted through. The handbrake parts just get dirty usually, rather then rusty as they are quite well protected/sealed.

mickywrx

iTrader: (29)

Where on earth are you getting your prices from? Subaru?

Fititngs
http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/part...y=&searchPart=

Shoes
http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/part...y=&searchPart=

About £20

Athough the price goes right up if you need new cables.

gary77

iTrader: (1)

Same place as you . I was talking about the parts that he has had zinc plated


So yes about £120

You didnt seriously think that i thought a few springs and couple of clips would cost £120 did you.

Do i seem like a complete retard lol

mickywrx

iTrader: (29)

Yes you do. Just kidding mate, not at all.

I'd never seen the complete set on ICP.

A couple of springs etc would be that much from Subaru.

£120 is excessive for what actually ends up needing replaced. In my experience, albeit limited, the only things that need replaced are the little pins and their cups, and the shoes wear out/fall to bits.

The rest cleans up and it's never seen.

gary77

iTrader: (1)

Youre right about the pins there wasnt much left of those . But £20 is pretty descent to get them looking like new .

jaygsi

iTrader: (46)

Hows the project going any news?

Laupy

iTrader: (2)

Great thread. Inspired me to go out at the weekend and remove my entire rear suspension and fuel tank to give it the same treatment. Have you had a chance to do any more work?

gary77

iTrader: (1)

Word of advice buy plenty wd40 type stuff . The bolts holding the lateral arms on are a pure ******* .

Iain FSTI

iTrader: (1)

Any pics of your roof vent mechanism from the inside?

Ash Webster

Random question - did you find the rear arb mount bolts all to be ****? all four of mine have sheared the heads! Loving the thread and slowly copying some of it

gary77

iTrader: (1)

Funny i just took my arb off the car today and ive left those 4 bolts because they felt like they will snap. Ill tackle them when i get a good anti seize spray

Laupy

iTrader: (2)

I sheared the first one, after that I backed them out half a turn at a time before winding them back in to try and keep the rusty exposed thread inside the chassis rail from clogging. Took about 15 minutes each but I got the rest out with no drama

Finished cleaning up the fuel tank today, spraying it this week

gary77

iTrader: (1)

Did you take any pictures of the fuel tank refurb. Ive almost got mine off the car.this connector is the only thing stopping it



Seems to just be a cheap part to replace

Captainfunbags

iTrader: (2)

Enjoyable read mate and hats off to you for sticking at it I reckon you would give MacGyver a run for his money

Currently in the final stages of a tarmac Nova build and once finished I will be getting stuck into my UK2000 to fettle it for some track days and maybe a bit of Autocross

Nova build [URL="https://www.facebook.com/Swan-AVO-192928674123607/photos/?tab=album&album_id=299179113498562"] [/ame]

Ash Webster

How did you / what did you get the hardbrake parts plated with? Im thinking of doing a similar thing with suspension bolts (ones that are not easily replaceable, rear lateral link bolt etc). Cheers

Ash

BrownPantsRacing

iTrader: (6)

They'll be zinc plated & passivated. If you ask any plater to Zinc plate & pass they can do it. They can do clear passivate too which will make them look silver rather than yellow.

Ash Webster

cheers BPR. I'm not too bothered about the colour just want them looking new and rust prevention etc, rather than having to spend £££ on new parts, although thinking about it i wonder what the price comparison is like...

BrownPantsRacing

iTrader: (6)

They need to be blasted & rust, dirt and contaminant free before plating but once that's done it's quite cheap to do. Most platers should be able to sort that too. My plating companies will only charge you a minimal charge for small parts as they'll put them in with larger jobs. I get things like brand new brake discs done before I install them and they last very well for years.

gary77

iTrader: (1)

We talked about the price of new versus plated parts further back in the thread . New is 120 and plated about 20 iirc . For the handbrake bits at the wheels

FMJ

iTrader: (2)

I'm still here I won't stop until the job is done

I have just been playing around with the Mustang and some other things.

First up the rear hubs were bolted the the struts and hubs coated with copper clip, then discs on.





Handbrake cables fitted and adjusted