boosted

Have a look at some of the daft stuff I'm up to;
https://www.scoobynet.com/general-technical-10/1012846-audi-quattro-6-sp-impreza-conversion.html

mikeblackett

Hi Boosted,
I've just had a peek at your thread and daft it certainly is not.
I am really looking forward to seeing the final outcome and i'm sure it wont disappoint. keep up the good work fella sounds like your nearly there

scoobygaz1

iTrader: (3)

It's threads like these that make it worth while coming on the site and learn something from, Enjoying the audi box thread as well

mikeblackett

I didn't mention it earlier but I did fit an excedy clutch prior to the project starting as I wasn't sure just how worn the original was and the last thing I needed was to complete the build and then have to strip it all down due to a slipping clutch.
Peak torque is indeed around the 4k mark with full boost at red line.
I'l try and find the wot readings but I do remember a test I did to find the ecu limit, I assumed that 7psi would be there a bouts for the ecu and injectors so I made up a pulley accordingly and deliberately fitted a rear lambda with broken heater elements which in turn threw a cel as expected. I may be wrong but I did do some research in the theory before I tried this.
As the lambda is now defective this in turns gives out a 1.275 v o2 sensor voltage output which in turn the ecu calculates to give maximum fuelling and at around 6psi the engine started to lean out and throw a manifold pressure code.
Although a risky test I now feel I know roughly where the limit is of the ecu and injectors.
So at 4.5psi im safe.
And a respectable performance increase

Maybe it's time to up the system and the boost

boosted

Defo more boost. You will find with an AEM on there that you can run closed loop with the factory lambda off boost, but, and this is where it gets interesting. Assuming it's a map sensing system you interrupt the map signal voltage and "cap" it so the factory ecu cannot see the increase in pressure (I'm surprised it can just now) then you can take full control of additional fueling at a given boost pressure/rpm break point, also you can retard ignition timing, again at given load points. I think I read you have wideband lambda? This is a definite requirement. Your injectors will be about 250cc/min I bet. All na cars' injectors are about that. Really you are looking for 380cc/min to be on the safe side. Over 200hp is achievable with more boost and a decent tune to 12:1 AFR.

mikeblackett

Thanks for your input,very knowledgeable and good advise.

It would seem that it detects boost somewhere between 5.5 - 7 psi but as it raises so quickly its hard to get an exact psi but it does to not detect the 4.5psi. I know some manufacturers ecu's are more tolerable to higher boost value but its not the end of the world.
At least now anyone who wants to do a similar project now knows what is possible using the standard system and performance gains so I've accomplished my initial goal.

boosted

AEM will fix that

mikeblackett

Raising the Boost is not going to be an issue the m90 is capable of 22psi which is another reason I chose It, so 10-12psi is hardly going to stretch its legs but with that in mind its worth while noting anyone wanting to do something similar.

The s/c displacement must be calculated and study the map so a correct pulley size can be achieved.
Its better to have a s/c that is capable of creating far more boost than you need and match the pulley size according to your boost requirements. The benefits of this is a slower rpm of s/c which will in turn reduce manifold intake temps, Noise reduction(less whine), longevity, reliability and the scope to reduce pulley size should you require to achieve more boost later on in the build.

mikeblackett

I've been looking at a few piggybacks and the AEM does look reasonably priced and ticks the right boxes, thanks.
I've got some calcs to make for 10-12 psi so I can get the s/c pulley size to achieve that and I should get a estimate bhp figure.

boosted

My advice is to put te AEM on first and become familiar with the software and how to tune before you start pilling the boost on.
It's easy on a subaru cos the ecu is on the passenger footwell. ATB

mikeblackett

OK, M.O.T was today so after some deliberation I decided to put it through with the supercharger running just to see how it would get on. I refitted the standard cat and turned the fuel pressure down to 42 psi.
All it failed on was a number plate bulb, not sure how I missed that
Emissions were fine, fast idle test apparently was a bit tricky requiring a steady foot due to bypass valve fluttering ready to close for boost.
At least now I've got another year to play about, time to get that cat back off it's definitely very restrictive and performance is down.

boosted

Congrats on passing the mot.

Rick2014

iTrader: (3)

I enjoyed reading this.Very informative and different to the usual stuff you see about.Well done

mikeblackett

Extremely cheap upgrade

I was at my local breakers yesterday and I spotted a set of blobeye rear clusters with harnesses only cost £15 for the pair which I couldn't believe needless to say I legged it out of the yard clutching my goods before he had time to changed his mind.

Heavy tinted bugeye rear clusters















Just had to take the small foam strip off under the brake light lenses to make them fit flush and not rub the bumper.
I wasn't quite keen on them at first but they definitely make a difference.

boosted

You just need the front end now!

mikeblackett

LOL,
I did think about it but really need to push on with the fic 6 now,
just making my way through the ecu diagrams.

I see your only a royal mail delivery away from completion, Like you said if you can sell the scooby gearbox that will reduce your build cost a fair bit.
As for your hours and expertise on the build "priceless"

MATT93

Fantastic work.
Amazing how smart some people are. Your first post confused the sh*t out of me, though I enjoyed reading everything else and looking at the pictures lol.

Didn't realise you could fit blob eye rear lights without having to change the rear bumper, did you have to cut away at the rear bumper to make them fit properly?

P.S Keep up the good work!

mikeblackett

The blobeye light are a straight fit on the bugeye,
But you must use the blobeye light cluster harness and it fit directly into the bugeye existing multi plug,
I didn't have to do anything to the standard bugeye bumper its a straight fit once you remove the thick foam strip under the brake lenses then it has about 8mm of clearance off the bumper

MATT93

That's fantastic, if you hear of anymore for £15 I'll take 2 sets lol

boosted

AEM is not bad for what your doing, several tuitions on YouTube too.
You will need a 12v live, earth, four injector earths cut and spicier into eight wires on AEM, the VR speed signal wires (two) spliced and put through four wires in the AEM. Also the map signal wire spliced and put into an AUX in and AUX out.
That will give you full control of of retard, fuel map and oem map sensor.
A couple hours will see it fitted

mikeblackett

Thanks for the info, I'm still waiting on the info regarding the difference other than channels of retarding between two fic 6 units from the supplier.

AEM 30-1910
Up to five channels of timing retard
Supports MAG or HALL sensor types

AEM 30-1911
Up to Three channels of timing retard
Supports MAG sensor types

AS the impreza is vr two wire type (mag) I assume either will do but the channels of timing still needs to be cleared up before I commit to the purchase.
I did notice that for the same price as the 30-1910 I could get a new Greedy blue emanage unit with loads of freebee extras.

You had any dealing with Greedy emanage ?

boosted

Can't help you with the greedy, not had any dealings with it sorry

boosted

And either of those ecu's will do, I am not running the cam sensor through mine, no probs.
Jap electronics is very basic compared with VAG stuff for example

mikeblackett

This is what I was thinking between the two fic units, The Honda one is nearly £100 cheaper I could just throw away the Honda harness patch and hard wire it or make one specific to mine for a couple of quid. I assume what they mean about the channels are sensor data input for timing ie cam, crank ect.
I had a look on utube tutorials looks like a fairly simple unit to operate and set up thanks for that

mikeblackett

aaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhh
The guy finally got back to me regarding the fic units and said he didn't know the difference. salesman ? The email started with "greetings my friend" which is never a good start and the spelling was terrible, Anyway after an hour of surfing the tinternet myself checking certain Honda ignition systems the fic 6 30-1911 is for distributor ignition systems with mag pickup, could of stated that in description.
so that's that fic 6 30-1910 it is.

mikeblackett

Ok, it's been a long time, a lot of different commitments,
The cars still going strong but the fic 6 has gathered enough dust since I bought it months ago.
The ramped up fuel pressure has served me well for the last year but time to install the piggyback
It was all wired in at the weekend all values set to zero so the fic doesn't interfere with the ecu till I get tuning time in, The car starts and drives however there does seem to be a few
Gremlims at work with hesitation which I suspect to be sensor noise from either cam or crank.
There is a few bits of info that seem to be alluding me regarding the injectors
I know that the Denso FBLC 100 injectors are 280 cc (same as 2.5 Impreza rs)
But I cannot find the exact injector response time ( latency ) I suspect there around the 0.5 Ms mark but that's only an educated guess but if anyone knows the information that would be great.

boosted

I left the injector settings alone in the AEM and never had any issues.
I take it you have done an RPM calibration and have checked that your map v in matches map v out etc? What signals are you currently modifying and what do your tables look like?
Well done in the instal and getting it running, i take it your AEM is in the footwell beside your factory ecu?

mikeblackett

Yes I hooked up to Ecu in the passenger footwell, I did the rpm, Tps calibration that went well and corresponds to the gauge display.
As I don't have a Maf I connected the Maf in/out to the signal wire from map sensor and clamped that to 4.8 v to stop Ecu from seeing boost. That seems to be working fine no cels like before when I go into boost at around 4 psi.
I left the default setting by fic at 486 Us for injector response time can't be that far off what it should be.
I've had a play with the maps as the boost in linear it rises that quick 1-4 psi so I aimed for 5psi max boost at wot and I'm running 11.6 Afr I'm still playing around with the 1-4 psi range. I'm pulling .5 degree of timing per ib of boost the car doing o-6o in the 7.2 - 7.5 secs range but with hesitation getting there.
I'm getting hesitation at cruise when I put the foot down even in n/a with s/c disconnected
I'm zeros in all maps till 15 so fic shouldn't be interfering

mikeblackett

Forgot to mention, the fic was new and unused I didn't get a cd with it the chap who I got it from had lost it so I had to download the software now it could be possible that the x and z files are the issue apparently they behave differently depending on make and models, and I haven't come across anyone running the fic with a scooby except you of course. I re flashed various files to see if any difference no change.

boosted

I had acceleration enrichment hesitation when tipping in on the throttle if I had even the slightest amount extra fuel mapped in off boost and into very low boost.
Does it do it with all corrections at zero? This will tell you if it's an excess fuel thing